Moving to Ecuador

Gone

2010-07-14T13:55:00.000-07:00

Our year in Ecuador is over. We are missing our lives in Quito and starting our new old lives in Baltimore. It has been an exciting adventuresome year, we have all experienced much that is new and life changing, and I have no doubt that we will be back again.

Thanks to all who read and commented on my blog, I appreciate the input.

Final Good-byes

2010-07-13T05:16:00.001-07:00

Goodbye Pichincha

I started today with a list and very systematically went through each item on it. The greatest challenge was to fit just enough in the bags so each of them weighed 50 pounds and no more. I crawled into bed after 1 AM last night and started again at 7 this morning. Life felt suddenly brighter when Maria and Gabriel came by and relieved me of my toaster oven and various and sundry items, and then Gustavo came to empty out my refrigerator and my kitchen cupboards. The apartment looked definitely emptier and I could focus on the stuff I had to fit into my suitcases.

I had missed dinner last night and breakfast this morning, so Maria suggested a coffee. It was back to Boncaffe next door where the coffee tasted so very good. We had a lunch date with Isabel and the family and arrived at the designated time (12:30) but of course it took another hour and a half to get to the restaurant (Lo Nuestro) and another hour or so to get fed. Maya and I were starving! The food was delicious (I like Costeno food best) and it felt good to catch up with the family. Erika is off to Finland to study at the end of the month, Stephanie is back from her year of study in Portland, and Junior just finished high school and is learning French at Alliance Francaise. He will be studying at Universidad Catolica next year. I was delighted to be able to understand everyone at the table and keep up with the conversation.

We stopped by to visit Jipsum at our dance school in the Mariscal and arranged to meet again in January when we plan to add a salsa class to the Ecuador course. Amparo came by for a visit and cakes from Cyrano's, and we were all crying when we said goodbye.

There was more craziness when I started weighing suitcases again and invariably found each bag a little over 50 pounds. When Gustavo came by I had him weigh each bag again, and he decided all of them were overweight. It was too late to do more than pull out a few more clothes, so we took the huge heavy bags downstairs. Of course there were no cabs when we searched for one. We had to take two taxis, and I stopped at Isabel's to give her a bag of clothes and say goodbye again. As I ran across the street to get to her house, the bag broke and underwear and socks were strewn across the road, so I cringed and grabbed all the bits and pieces and stuffed them together and left themwith her, how embarrassing!

I was so thankful to have Gustavo with us to get through to the Delta desk with our junk. Everything went rather smoothly except that the narcotics police decided to go through every item in one of my bags and I am afraid the breakable things will not survive.

The day has been a whirlwind of activity so I have not had much time to think about how painful it is to leave. I have no doubt that I will adjust to my former life without difficulty, but change is challenging and we have had a good year with many wonderful experiences and relationships and we will miss this place. It feels as if the year is ending without too much noise, not with a bang at least, more like a whimper. We are just leaving and that is that.

Teleferico

2010-07-12T20:01:00.001-07:00

View from the Teleferico

The streets were almost dry this morning and the sky was blue with clouds, so Maya and I decided to take the teleferico up Pichincha to see the city and hoped to see more mountains. We arrived later than planned, so that when we arrived up top, the clouds started to roll in and the possible views began to fade away. Guagua and Rucu Pichincha were both covered in snow, and appeared and disappeared behind clouds as we ascended the path. We veered off the prescribed path to the start of the climb to Rucu, where we decided to rent horses for a half hour. We did not go far, but I was delighted to wander through the high paramo vegetation.

Seeing our Apartment from the Teleferico

Guagua Pichincha

Rucu Pichincha

We had limited time, since Maya had her last violin lesson and last orchestra practice and last concert of the year. I dropped her off at 4 after saying goodbye to her teacher Karin, and then visited the salon downstairs where I had my last manicure and pedicure. It was amazing to talk to the ladies downstairs and remember the early days when I did not understand anything and struggled so much to communicate. I still have a tough time understanding the Columbian woman who speaks so rapidly, but I am good at figuring out the gist of her comments and saying something intelligent in return. At least they think I speak Spanish even when I clearly am lost in the conversation.

High Above Quito

Up Close to Heaven

Maya had a concert at the Iglesia del 'Carmelo' on Amazonas and El Inca. I arrived early and found a mass going, and of course the concert started late. It was lovely to watch Maya lead the orchestra and I felt sad that she would no longer be playing with this group. She has always felt good at practice and with her orchestra friends, and often in those first months it was the place where she felt most confident. The children have been helpful and thoughtful and the conductor has been a delight. She has learned so much and is a much better musician now. When we told her violin teacher in New York that we would be moving to Ecuador, she had told us that it was the end of Maya's violin 'career' and that as far as she knew there was no one to teach Maya violin here, and that Maya would 'fall off' track here. Clearly that has not happened, Maya has learned so much and has grown so much as a musician.

Good bye Quito. It felt right to say good-bye from 13000 feet today. It felt sad to say good-bye to individuals. When Maya and I arrived home after the concert, there was a knock on the door, and Patti and Marcelo from the gym downstairs came by to say good-bye and deliver some gifts for us. I have seen either Patti or Marcelo at the gym almost daily since we moved into the apartment on September 7, so they have become a very regular part of our lives. Maya often joins me and reads or does homework while I work out, and Eric and I helped them buy a computer for their son Mateo, so our lives have intersected in all sorts of ways.

I have one more day to pack and say good-bye to too many people. I am not very good at saying good-bye so I am reassuring everyone that we will be back in January, which is true, but mostly avoids the finality of leaving.

Last Night as Concertmaster

Across the Valley

Laguna Quilotoa

2010-07-11T19:29:00.000-07:00

The Ilinizas

Roosters and birds woke us up. I will miss waking up to birds singing. I could hear the mountain climbers getting ready early; our wake up call was at 7:30. Breakfast was granola with fruit and yoghurt and a cappuccino which was of course not really a cappuccino but pretended to be one. We met our guide for the day, who was from Israel. He had come to Ecuador to visit family and travel and ended up volunteering and staying far longer than he planned. Ecuador has a way of grabbing you and holding tight.

Corazon

Our tourbus was packed with tourists from Germany, Canada, Peru, Columbia, Brasil, and Israel. Every seat including the jumpseats in the aisle were occupied. Our driver was Ricardo and guided the Spanish and Portugese speakers, and Avi guided the rest of us. As we drove onto the Panamerican Highway most of the mountains were clearly visible, including Guagua and Rucu Pichincha and the Ilinizas covered in snow, Corazon, Ruminahui, and Pasachoa. Cotopaxi was again covered in clouds. The sky was blue and the sun was warm and I was hopeful that we would see more throughout the day. Eric and I had visited Quilotoa earlier in the year, and by the time we arrived at the rim of the crater lake, the fog was so thick we could not see more than a foot in any direction. We had waited an hour or so hoping that the clouds would lift, but in the end we drove back blindly and missed the lake altogether.

So I was trying to remain positive, which was easy to do for the first part of our journey. We stopped at Pujili to visit the Sunday market, and wandered through the fruit, grain and meat stalls. It appeared to me that the locals were quite accustomed to tourists toting cameras, and I found myself altogether too careful about offending them with my photographs, so I did not do well there as far as recording the experience. I had an easier time when we stopped at an indigenous home later on. I had wondered about the curious structures when I drove through with Eric early in the year.

Pujili Market

Selling Grains

Market Day

Their homes are dug into the earth and covered with grass. A small space accommodates 15 or so members of a family, with the oldest male being the head of the group. There is a corner for the fire and the children sleep close to the fire and the adults further away. Guinea pigs run all over the living space, and pots and pans are piled up in one corner and some clothes hang on a string running across the centre of the hut. There are many many children, a few women and fewer men; they are likely working in the fields. We are at 12000 feet or so and every inch of land is cultivated, apparently all work is done by hand. Potatoes and onions are the usual crops. The indigenous are incredibly poor, and our visit provided more than they usually live on in a month!

Cultivating Every Inch

Tigua Mountain

We drove to the lake and I was ecstatic that despite the clouds which had descended as we ascended, we could actually see the crater from end to end. There was no sun, so the colour was a deep blue rather than the turquiose that appears when the sky is brighter. We walked down the very steep path to the bottom of the crater and Maya took her shoes off so she could put her feet into the 5 degree water. The laguna appeared after an eruption some 500 years ago.

Canyon as a Result of an Earthquake

Laguan Quilotoa

The hike up took more than twice as long and Maya wanted desperately to rent a mule, but I insisted that she walk and it was painful to watch her struggle. Avi stayed a step behind her all the way, and as we ascended it began to get darker and more ominous and just as we reached the lip of the crater, it began to rain furiously. Just in time!

We ate simple food at Pacha Mama Hostal (soup, chicken potatoes and rice), and enjoyed our table with the Spanish speaking guests. By the time we were done and ready to go, it was pouring and visibility was limited. Our bus driver inched along the rapidly deteriorating road, and it took more than three hours to get back to Papagayo and our delicious chocolate cake, then another two hours to get back home. Quito was drenched in rain, apparently it had rained all day, and it was cold and miserable.

Our painters did a reasonable job of painting, which was a relief, but they left paint dribbles all over the floor, so I spent the next three hours on my knees scraping off the paint with fingers and a scouring pad. I guess I chose the least expensive estimate and sometimes you get what you paid for. Isabel had told me that Fidel painted all her rentals and was a professional painter, but clearly there was some misunderstanding. Attention to detail is not necessarily as important as getting the job done.

Our Israeli friend had much to say about life in Ecuador. He loves that everything is negotiable and that everything is possible even when it is impossible. There are no rules or if there are rules, they are just suggestions and everyone does what they want to do. Perhaps most significant is that Ecuadorians generally live in the moment. The past and the future are not relevant and it is today that has meaning. Sometimes living now makes the moment more intense and more real. I want to take that feeling home with me.

Child

Avenue of the Volcanoes

2010-07-10T07:22:00.000-07:00

Maya as Cowboy!

Last Blast!!!!There were so many choices as to how to best appreciate our last weekend in Ecuador. I had thought of Guayaquil, a city which I have always enjoyed, but have not entirely explored. I had never been to Loja, far in the south, nor to the valley of Vilcabamba where people regularly live more than a hundred years. The beach always beckons, and this time we were advised to travel to Esmeraldas in the north where the sun tends to shine at this time of year. Finally I decided that we had not seen the mountains in several weeks, and I believe I will miss the Avenue of the Volcanoes most of all when we leave.

I had made arrangements for Fidel to come to the house at 9 to start painting, but of course this is Ecuador, and he did not show up until closer to 11, but that gave me a chance to get the apartment ready for him and for Maya and I to visit Corfu for breakfast. There is very little in my refrigerator and I have made a concerted effort not to shop for much, and I have been too successful so there is nothing to eat in the house!Loving the Countryside

I had packed two small backpacks with lots of warm clothes. I had called Hosteria Papagayo, which is near Machachi, about an hour south of Quito, where I arranged to arrive in the early afternoon for a horsebackride (Maya's request for her last weekend in Ecuador) and a daylong trip to Laguna Quilotoa on Sunday. I knew that I needed to catch a bus from Quitumbe, the 'Terminal Terrestre' in the south of Quito, but I had no idea how far it was. We caught a taxi to get to the Trole stop, and our taxiste was kind enough to advise us where to catch the Trole and which one to get on. At the El Ejido stop, the number 5 Trole goes more directly to the bus station ( but not that directly, there were more than twenty stops!) It felt like forever and it did in fact take longer than an hour to get to the very modern, clean and efficient bus terminal. We truly passed through all of Quito and ended at the very southern tip. It was easy to find the boleteria and buy our tickets. We walked to a line of standing buses, each competing for our attention. They all had the same destinations (Latacunga, Ambato, Salcedo) so it was confusing to know which one to choose, someone shouting out for customers for each one. I went from one to another., finally settled on one of them. I was reassured when I asked the driver about stopping 2 kilometers past the Peaje at Machachi, and he immediately mentioned Papagayo. We left almost immediately and it took less than an hour to get to our destination. It was thrilling to see the mountains all around us, topped with snow after the past rainy cold days. The sky was blue and the hills were green and lush. When we disembarked however, it began to rain and the 800 metres to the hosteria were messy. The sky blackened and we arrived just before the downpour.

The hosteria is a 200 year old hacienda once owned by the family of the wife of Mariscal Sucre, had been abandoned for a time, and passed through several owners before becoming the base for 'Gulliver Travel', which specializes in organizing climbs to Cotopaxi. Corazon, the Ilinizas and more. The place was full of very serious climbers, with all sorts of gear and several exhausted travelers curled up on the couches. When I climbed to the Cotopaxi Refugio and glacier with Deborah and Mel, we had stopped at the Papagayo for chocolate cake on our way home, so I was familiar with the place. It is comfortable and relaxed, a step up from a hostel, but not quite a hotel.

Psychotropic Flower

Our room was big with a fireplace (necessary as it got colder). Our horses were ready to go, so we missed lunch, and we snacked on 'Spitzbuben' that we picked up at Cyrano's. Alan, dressed in llama chaps and looking very much the cowboy, was waiting for us. The skies cleared momentarily, so we crossed our fingers and mounted 'Caramelo' and 'Joseph' and left the Papgayo. For a few minutes, the mountains were visible, the Ilinizas full of snow, Corazon clear in the distance, Guagua and Rucu Pichincha dusted with snow. Cotopaxi was invisible. I did not think to photograph anything, it was simply too beautiful and breathtaking for those moments, and then the clouds descended and gradually all the mountains disappeared and the rain began. We walked and then cantered for a while, but had to slow down and slog through the big puddles of water. Three yellow labs joined us along the way. At one point we passed a reservoir and one of the puppies fell in and could not climb out because plastic sheeting covered the sides. Alan had to rescue the dog; it would have drowned if not pulled out, since there was no way for it to successfully get out of the water. We continued to a big field where ordinarily all the mountains are visible; Cotopaxi, the Pichinchas, Corazon Ruminahui, and more. We had to be satisfied with just imagining their presence, and even covered with clouds, their power was palpable.

Rescuing the Dog

High Amongst the Mountains

No View of Mountains

Our ride back in the rain was tolerable, but I was looking forward to a fire, and unfortunately we were told that we could not have a fire until 6 PM. I got into the shower, which I could hardly feel because I was so cold, and there was only a choice between very hot and very cold. I chose hot but I am not sure I could tell if it was hot or cold. Once showered and changed, we were offered a most amazing and luscious chocolate cake with tea. I remembered it from our Cotopaxi trip.

Tromping in the Mud

On Our Walk

We were much happier when the fire was blazing in our room and we could dry our clothes and warm up next to the flames. I left the fire going half the night, but it felt good to have a window open with fresh air too. We snuggled in our double bed to stay warm and I could not keep my eyes open past 10!

Riding in the Rain

No Visible Mountains

Goodbye Quito

2010-07-09T21:28:00.000-07:00

Plaza Grande

San Augustin

It took far to long today to make a decision about who would paint the apartment, how much would be painted, what colour was to be used, who would buy the paint, when it would be done, how much to pay, etc etc. Maria recommended the painter who did a great job on her house, but he got lost finding our place (went to Suiza instead of Suecia) and in the interim Isabel recommended Fidel, who cleans her house and is a professional painter, and would give me a good price. He came over and agreed that the walls looked good, but suggested that it is usual for owners to expect a renter to paint before leaving. When Maria's referral came by, he did not feel that anything but the baseboards needed painting. The maintenance man from the apartment, who had originally painted the place before we moved in, suggested a price fully four times that of Antonio and Fidel.

Church at Museo de la Ciudad

Sacred Heart La Compañia

San Fransisco

Finally, I agreed to have Fidel come tomorrow after buying the paint (I gave his son Gustavo the leftover paint when I did not feel the apartment needed painting so he has a sample of the right colour). Later I received a message from Gustavo saying he would come by and help paint as well. I gave Fidel my key and hope to be gone for the weekend so as not to have to breathe in the fumes, but Maria had originally agreed to take a trip to the Avenue of the Volcanoes for the weekend but by the end of the day decided she was too tired to join me, so Maya and I will have to decide in the morning how to organize our last weekend. I had wanted desperately to return to Quilotoa, which was clouded over when Eric, Maya and I visited. I thought the drive was stunningly beautiful, and wanted to take it slower and appreciate it more. Of course the weather is not very friendly as of late, and it will likely be awfully cold and there is a good chance the lake will be clouded over again, but I still want to try to get there. The bus ride is endlessly long, but may be an opportunity to appreciate the countryside (the journey is the destination). There is a wonderful ecolodge nearby, but it is entirely booked for the weekend, so we may end up traveling for the day only. Decisions, decisions.

Maya and I finally went to visit Isabel, whom we had not seen, for all sorts of reasons, for months. She was busy preparing for her son's graduation party, to be held at the Marriott with 300 guests. We caught up with our lives and arranged for a lunch date with the whole family on Tuesday, the day Maya and I leave. I chose Costeño food, since Isabel is from Manabi, and now that I have spent some time on the coast I have decided that I like coastal food best.

Maya had her last violin lesson, except that we did not feel ready for it to be the last one and we arranged for another on Monday. She had her last orchestra practice, but will see all her music friends again on Monday when she has her last concert. We visited her ballet school to leave some DVD's and say goodbye, but we were there too early and saw no close friends and will have to try again next week.

Carmen Bajo

Police at Plaza Grande

Yummy Cakes

Selling Candies

I had been to Mi Commisariato and Megamaxi yesterday, likely for the last time, searching for cleaning materials that Gustavo had insisted he needed for the apartment. I bought some fruit from the local market, and was cheated again, but this time I looked at my bill immediately and questioned the error before leaving the store and I was finally able to prove that the salesclerk had charged me exceessively. This happens quite regularly, and usually I figure it out when I am back in the apartment, but I am prepared for the errors now (finally) and am able to catch them right away. Even when I showed her the error, she still tried to give me a dollar less, and I had to embarrass her further by insisting on the entire amount owed. I wonder that I keep returning to the same shop knowing that about 80 percent of the time she is trying to steal from me!

Maya and I decided to have a night in the Centro Historico. Our first taxi had no taximeter and wanted $7 for the ride. When I pointed out that it costs less than $3, he booted us out of the car. We found a legitimate cab a few minutes later, who used his taximeter and arrived at our destination at under $3 so I felt exonerated. I truly know the cost of a cab ride almost anywhere, and can argue knowing I am right. It is still exhausting to be always on the lookout for inaccuracies and intentional efforts to take advantage of my gringo status.

Ballet Folklorico

La Ronda

Out on the Town

We watched folkloric dance in the Archbishop's Palace and then walked to 'La Ronda', probably for the last time. Maya found a theatre with more folkloric dance by another company called Humanizarte, which has a venue in the Mariscal each Wednesday night but now also dances Friday nights in La Ronda. Music was overflowing everywhere and the street and restaurants were packed. I was so sad that when I brought Deborah and Rebecca and Werner on a Monday night, the place was dead, and they were so unimpressed. The energy is entirely different on a Friday night!

Humanizarte

Great Hats

Trying on Hats

Great Hot Chocolate

Maya insisted on trying 'canelazo', the warm drink with naranjilla juice and sugar cane alcohol. I asked for a very small amount of alcohol, and I was surprised that she liked it and kept asking to drink more. We wandered in and out of the shops and the bars and the restaurants, and tried an amazing cup of hot chocolate made with a bar of exquisite dark chocolate. La Ronda is absolutely the best place to be on a weekend night. I felt that we were saying goodbye from morning until night all through the day, but not very well. Nothing felt final. Everyone that we said goodbye to, we arranged to see again next week. I suppose we are not very good at letting go, of making it final. Except I think this may be it for La Ronda, but we may want to return to buy more chocolate. Perhaps I won't say goodbye to anyone. It will have to be 'hasta luego'.

Plaza Santo Domingo

Inspection Time

2010-07-08T19:30:00.000-07:00

View to the South of the Centro Historico

Virgin of Quito

Too many hours scrubbing walls and carpets and sofas today. When I was finally satisfied, Maya celebrated with an ice cream at Corfu, and a walk around Carolina Park in the glorious sunshine. We took the Ecovia to Alameda Park, where Maya and I decided to try the paddle boats in artificial canal, and Maya did a remarkable job navigating and steering us along the route in the thirty minute allotted time. It was hard work!

Paddling in Alameda Park

Watching Children Practicing on Stilts

Maya was not thrilled to be back in the Centro Historico, complaining that she had seen all there was to see, and of course I had seen even more, but I wanted fresh air and a walk, and there is no better place to stroll than in the centre, where one always encounters something new and different. And today the church of Carmen Alto was open for the first time (I have walked by dozens of times and the grand doors are always closed. There is usually access to the convent where one can buy items produced by the nuns through a window next door to the church. When I saw the church door ajar, I could not pass without checking. It was empty but for a priest sitting quietly next to the altar. It is a small and simple church, with the usual baroque gold altars and statues, but with a measure of lightness compared to other similar churches. Later we found the doors to Carmen Bajo open; the church had been under renovation for most of the year that we have been here, and now the altars and art are gradually being replaced. I felt lucky that we were able to see these two structures that have been closed to us in the past.

Street Theatre at the Plaza de Teatro

Audience on the Plaza

Carmen Bajo

Suffering Christ

Open Doors at Carmen Alto

Carmen Bajo

I remember that we had been to the Museo de la Ciudad the first week we arrived in Quito. It was fitting that we return for a visit today. The museum outlines the story of the establishment and development of the city since the arrival of the Spaniards.

Museo de Ciudad

View of Quito Sur

We strolled through the centro and caught the Ecovia home just in time to go through the apartment with the owner and the landlady. I thought everything looked great, and was surprised and disappointed that I was asked to have the place painted by the time I leave next week. I am now scrambling to find someone reasonable for the job. I wonder if we are being taken advantage of (I asked Patti, the dueña of the gym downstairs, and she was the one who suggested that) and I feel burdened by having to arrange for the job immediately. I had hoped that now Maya and I could relax and enjoy our last few days in Quito. Perhaps everything was going too well for us, and there had to be a glitch, and this is it, but it is not too insurmountable a task.

Virgin of Quito

Playdate

2010-07-07T14:48:00.001-07:00

Mini City Challenge

Today was a glimpse into how the other side lives. Cumbaya, the valley next to Quito, attracts many of the successful Quiteños who want to get away from the hustle and bustle of the city. There are gated communities with large homes with extensive grounds and swimming pools and tennis courts. Many of the expats live there, as do the well to do Ecuadorians.

Cumbaya is quieter and safer and well heeled. There are fancier stores and gyms and malls and restaurants. A large private university attracts students and professors from other countries. There are private schools scattered all over.

A tunnel separates Quito from Cumbaya, only a ten minute trip without traffic. I take the bus from the Rio Coca bus station, which takes a more circuitous route and avoids the 40 cent Peaje cost of the Guayasamin tunnel. The buses stop frequently but travel at great speed around the curves and hills to Cumbaya. From my apartment, there are only three Ecovia stops to get to a constantly flowing line of buses heading to Cumbaya, Tumbaco, Pifo and El Quinche. It is twenty five cents for the Ecovia and another twenty five for the bus to Cumbaya, which stops right in front of the Supermaxi where I often meet friends whom I am visiting.

Gabriel and Maya had a playdate at 'Mini City', a children's pretend world, which kept them running for several hours. Parents are required to enter (and pay) but are not permitted to enter into the stations that are set up to entertain the children. Maria and I ended up in a coffee shop with carrot cake and Nescafe. Maya and Gabriel received $100 each in play money and were required to pay for certain activities but are also given an opportunity to earn money by accomplishing all sorts of tasks. They get to be firemen, messengers, circus performers, ice cream designers, journalists, TV cameramen, bakers. They earn their driver's license ( Maya was too tall to fit into the cars and could not get her practical test). Gabriel and Maya ran constantly and enjoyed earning and spending their money and were disappointed when it was closing time.

Mini City was lots of fun for Maya and Gabriel and it was good to see them happy and enjoying each other. I did feel a little out of sorts though; the experience was a reminder of the consumer oriented world I am returning to and which has not been part of our lives for the past year. It was fitting that this sort of entertainment would be located in Cumbaya, which reminds me more of the world I know. Living in Quito and taking public transportation and walking everywhere and spending time in the less well kept parts of town certainly has given me a different perspective. Spending the day in Cumbaya took me away from what I have been accustomed to this year and perhaps prepared me more for the world I am returning to.

Earning Money Feels Good

Cold in Quito

2010-07-06T12:53:00.001-07:00

Hockey Night in Quito

I did not realize how cold it has been in Quito, so after a weekend at the beach, where it rains incessantly but the air and the water both in the ocean and from the sky is warm, it feels colder than ever. I have sent all my warm clothes away, so nothing that I have quite does the job. And I think it is warmer outside than it is in the apartment.

Somehow our day never really got moving. Maya had lots of violin practice to catch up on, I tried to repack most of our stuff and weigh each suitcase to be sure I could get everything in the four 50 pound bags. I think I will make it but just. I have three boxes of things to be left with my friend Maria. I am not sure what I will do with the boxes, whether I will ever want anything in the boxes or whether at some point I will just ask her to throw everything out. But she has been kind enough to store them for me for now. The bonus for her is that she has two whole boxes of children's books, which she and Gabriel like to read together. When we return in January, Maya will have fresh books to read (hopefully she will have forgotten them by then).

The apartment looks almost ready for inspection, which will happen Thursday. I will finally meet the dueña and hopefully she will be content with the state of the rooms. I believe we have taken good care of them. We had been advised not to pay our last month's rent, that here in Ecuador the custom is to use the security deposit as the last month's rent, so I am not sure what we do if she finds things not to her liking. I am not quite prepared for her to be dissatisfied. I am in her debt because she has agreed to let me stay in the apartment until our flight out, which is more than generous and I am not sure that there is not a price to be paid for her kindness. Perhaps I will simply feign misunderstanding or ignorance of the language if anything becomes uncomfortable.

When we arrived last night, it was evident that Emilie and Sam had been here. They did not sleep in the apartment Monday night, but arrived sometime in the afternoon from Mindo. Maya and I had been talking about going to a movie. I had seen 'Robin Hood' on a very poor quality DVD at home and wanted to see it on the big screen. Emilie and Sam wanted to join us, so we took the bus to Plaza de las Americas, where we arrived a half hour before the show, which was entirely sold out. I knew that there was another cinema a few blocks away at CCI, so we bussed it over there and did get tickets for a 9:30 show, with two hours until the show. We found the food court and ate quickly, then wandered around the very oppressive mall. There is a small ice rink in the basement, so we watched a hockey practice. The coach was clearly Canadian and spoke English with his players. Suddenly Maya recognized him as being a teacher at her school and from Toronto. He recognized her and said hello. The rink was a half size rink, so the players in their bulky uniforms looked a little ridiculous, but it was delightful to watch them on the ice.

When we finally sat down for the movie, I thought Maya would fall asleep (her bedtime is 8:30 PM), but she stayed up throughout the two hour show, and we all loved it (it is a version of 'Gladiator' with the same director and star) and arrived home long past midnight.

When we first arrived here, I would regularly go to the movies at the 'Supercines' around the corner, but it has been closed for months. My understanding is that the garage was not big enough, that the traffic around the theatre was excessive, that the noise and the disruption to the neighbourhood was a source of complaints, but the truth is that the 'right' people have not been paid off (I heard that the developers were too arrogant and thought they could get away with flaunting the unspoken rules). The theatre opened for a few hours last week, but was promptly closed within three hours, and that once again the owners refused to make the necessary accommodations (or payments) and that the cinema is unable to open for now.

My favourite cinema in town is 'Ochoymedio' in La Floresta, but I rarely get there. The movies are not the usual Hollywood fare; they are foreign and rare and interesting and compelling, but never suitable for children, so without a regular babysitter, I just look at the titles and wish I could go, and hope that one day I will have the opportunity to see anything I wish to see whenever I can.

A Long Way Home

2010-07-05T07:13:00.000-07:00

Morning Colours

I was the only one who did not suffer last night. It was warm and the mosquitoes were busy. Maya was bitten all over, and had welts all over her face, arms and legs. Hernan, Maria and Gabriel were up all night itching. I slept nine hours -- after I spent some time cowering in fear after I heard what I thought were a series of gunhots. I thought we would be attacked at any moment and I decided there was little I could do other than covering Maya with my body. Maria heard the 'shots' as well and decided they were transformers popping. Evidently we were not attacked, except by insects.

Grey Beach

Frigate Bird

Children on the Beach

In the Mud

Fisherman

It was another miserable day, but that did not stop Maya and Gabriel from enjoying the surf. It was lightly drizzling as we watched the children swim, with Hernan, and then later with Maria. Hernan had decided that we would leave today, and no one objected. We packed up before lunch and headed north to Pedernales. I was hoping we would find a warmer sunnier place to swim, but that was not everyone's plan. We ate wonderful shrimp and langostinos in a seaside restaurant. Children came to beg for money, so we fed them rice and lentils and they told us they had no parents.

Feeding Hungry Children

Usual Mode of Transport

El Carmen

El Carmen

We drove to El Carmen and stopped at a mall in Santo Domingo for ice cream and yoghurt with mora and coffee. These towns are not attractive and are not compelling, except that I like the 'costeños', who are relaxed and friendly and more open than their serrano neighbours.

The drive home in the dark was long and once again it was better to close my eyes and try to ignore the wild corners and passing trucks. There were few signs and we got lost at least once, having to turn around and ask for directions on more than one occasion. We took the road to Mindo rather than the Santo Domingo route through the mountains, which was longer and more circuitous, but apparently safer in the night and had fewer trucks and buses. I was happy to arrive safely.

Sunset

Rain, Mist and Grey Skies

2010-07-04T14:38:00.001-07:00

More of a Usual Day

Yesterday was unusual; today was more of the expected rain, mist and grey skies. My bathing suit was still wet from yesterday and from the humidity after the storm during the night, so I stayed in shorts and shirt and jacket while the children plunged into the surf, oblivious to the drizzle and insisting that the water was warmer than the ambient air. For Maya and Gabriel, a downpour would not have made a difference anyway. Maria and I walked along the beach to the north, where we encountered fishermen's shacks, caves, vultures and tide pools. We convinced the children to join us after they changed into warmer clothes, and they had their own adventure looking for oysters and mother of pearl. Maya wanted to know what she could expect to earn from her collection, and was not satisfied until I explained that after the shells had been incorporated into beautiful silver and gold jewelery, they would be worth much much more.

Catching up with Reading

Playing Cards

Beach to the South

Teepee on the Beach

Fishermen's Houses

The sky never stopped drizzling all day. We played pool, UNO, cribbage, read books, swung in hammocks, ate more shrimp and calamari for lunch, and could not keep Maya and Gabriel from the water in the afternoon. I was surprised that Maya was not at all hesitant to enter the water, after her 'medusa' experience yesterday. Somehow the day rushed by and it was dark early. We decided to drive to Pedernales for the evening. It was a long drive on a very dark road with lots of speed bumps. We stopped again at 'La Choza' where I had shrimp with coconut sauce and Maya and Gabriel had pizza while watching 'King Kong' on the big screen. Driving home was spooky in the dark without street lights, but I think I fell asleep along with the children and we were suddenly at the gates and in bed.

Reading Some More

Puffer Fish

Bubbles

Rain or Shine on the Beach

Vultures Everywhere

Empty Beach

Slugs Aplenty

I slept well in our tent, but Gabriel, Maria and Hernan were attacked by mosquitoes all through the night. Maya was eaten up as well. Somehow whenever I am with Maya the mosquitoes prefer her and stay away from me, so I was comfortable and well rested every night.

Hernan, Gabriel, Maria and Maya

Sunset

Beach Time!

2010-07-03T00:01:00.001-07:00

Sand, Sun and Ocean

Another effort at a beach vacation, although it is difficult for me to imagine one without sun. Maria and I had arranged to start our journey at 5 AM, so Maya and I were packed and ready to go before then, but Maria, Hernan, and Gabriel arrived at the house some time after 5:30 and we got onto the 'Oriental' by 6. The road to Santo Domingo was treacherous, but not too full of traffic. Hernan is a good driver, although fast and not averse to risk, so I purposefully closed my eyes and tried not to pay attention. So time passed quickly and it felt as if we were on the coast in no time. We drove to Pedernales, where we stopped at 'La Choza' on the Malecon, exactly the same restaurant where Eric, Maya and I had lunch on our way home from Canoa and watched the world cup game when Germany battered Australia at 4:0. We arrived in time to watch the second half of the game between Germany and Argentina, again with Germany winning at 4:0!

Maria had chosen to stay at 'Punta Blanca', near Jama south of Pedernales. She had been there with Gabriel and Hernan when Gabriel was small and had good memories of the place. The accommodations were in tents with communal bathrooms, very rustic but reasonably comfortable. We were all happy to arrive in glorious sunshine. It took no time to be in our swimsuits and checking out the surf. The children were in heaven. The water was warm, the waves kept coming, and they never wanted to leave the ocean. The tents were at the top of a cliff, and we had to walk down 138 steps to get to the water, and again up the 138 steps to the restaurant for lunch. I had been looking forward to shrimp and calamari and ceviche and was not disappointed.

Happy Children

South to Canoa

Gabriel and Maya

The Paraguay España game kept us from the sun for a short while, but Gabriel and Maya were eager to run down the stairs to the water for an afternoon in the sun. We were so relieved to have good weather! The children were happy to have each other and I enjoyed having a companion on the beach, although I was happy to read my book and plunge into the waves as well. This was more like the beach vacation I was looking forward to!

Buried in my book, it took a while to register that the screaming that I heard was Maya's, and that it was not yelps of joy. For a moment, I thought she had lost a part of her anatomy, but when I reached her I discovered long blue green tendrils of a jelly fish clinging to her thigh. Her hands were inflamed and a figure of the number '5' was outlined on her leg. I had her wash herself off and put aloe vera cream wherever she was stung. I expected that she would be avoidant of the water after that, but other than preferring that an adult join her each time, she spent as much time as possible in the water.

Jellyfish Five

Frigate Birds Flying By

Canada Day Celebrations

2010-07-02T14:19:00.001-07:00

A Short Visit to the Centro Historico

Canada Day was yesterday, but we decided to celebrate it today. Emilie, Sam, Maya and I did not get moving too early in the morning and were delayed at Boncaffee while we watched Brasil lose to Holland at the World Cup (can't beleive Brasil is out -- they were supposed to win!). By the time we got on the Ecovia to go downtown, it was too late to give Emily and Sam a proper tour of the old town. We got off at La Marin and walked to the Plaza Grande. I suggested they visit La Compania (the gold church) and San Fransisco church and museum, as well as Casa Alabada, and have lunch at the Archbishop's Palace at Hasta La Vuelta Señor.

Then Maya and I made a mad dash to find a taxi, which then took forever to get to Cyrano's near the apartment to buy a cake for the celebration, change clothes hastily, and meet the ambassador's car next door for a ride to Cumbaya. Maria was hosting the event at her house for a small group of Canadian women and we all indulged in bagels and cream cheese and smoked salmon and good company.

I am not sure it felt like Canada Day, not only because it was a day late. If not for this event, I would have forgotten to celebrate. We had picked up Margaret, the Ambassador's wife at the American Ambassador's residence, where over a thousand people had been invited to celebrate the Fourth of July two days early. I guess the date of the celebration does not matter, it is the (thought?) feasting that counts. In the Ecuadorian media, Canada Day and Fourth of July hardly merit a word, and are certainly not mentioned or important for anyone but those celebrating.

It is always wonderful to get together with the Canadian women and Canada Day was just an excuse. This was to be my last event with this group of women who have be incredibly supportive and entertaining and interesting and reassuring. I will miss them and our meetings and celebrations and hope that I will see them all again.

Emilie and Sam are off to the north for a few days. Maya and I will join Maria and Gabriel for a weekend at the beach near Pedernales. I am not expecting sun, so I will not be disappointed if it rains and am bringing warm clothes and rainjackets just in case. I am trying to make up for our anticipated missed vacation at the beach in Florida (where we were disinvited!), but so far we have not quite made it to a proper 'fun in the sun' break.

Sam and Emilie off to Otavalo

Convent of San Diego

2010-07-01T21:34:00.000-07:00

Back to the Centro Historico

Emilie and Sam did not arrive in the morning. Their plane was delayed again in Caracas. Of course there is always much to do in preparation to leave anyway, with more packing and organizing and cleaning and fixing up the apartment (all to the glorious sounds of Bach and Mozart and Massanet on the violin!). Finally around noon, Maya and I decided we needed to leave the house and explore some of Quito. It was a wonderful sunny Quito day, not too hot, not too cold, just enough sun and blue skies and very very inviting.

I had read about a new store in the Mariscal which specialized in all Ecuadorian food specialties; an Ecuadorian gourmet store. It had opened two weeks ago and I must start thinking of all the things I must bring back to Baltimore. Of course there are many good coffee brands and several types of chocolate, and aji (spicy sauce to put on everything) and even wine (which I have never tasted, I had no idea Ecuador produced wine). Maya and I decided on the chocolate we plan to buy, and will return to make purchases before we leave.

On any given day in Quito, I can't help but head toward the Centro Historico, and decided that I would again try to get to the Convent and Museum of San Diego. I have tried to walk there several times and am always dissuaded -- either several people warn me that the walk is too dangerous, or it feels wrong each time I try. This trip was to be by taxi, and even when I told the taxi driver where we were going, he suggested we go another museum, because where we were going was too dangerous. I insisted we get to our destination anyway and he dropped us off in front of the church.

View of the Panecillo From the Courtyard

The museum was to open at 2:30, and we arrived at 2:32, but the museum was closed and when we asked at the church office we were told that the museum lady would not be there until 3. I chose to wait, and Maya entertained me with excerpts out of the Lonely Planet Ecuador guide. We waited patiently, as we always seem to do in Ecuador. At 3:15, a very skinny older lady with painted eyebrows told us there were other tourists in the cemetery and we would have to wait for them. I pointed out that the museum was to have opened at 2:30 and we had waited a long time and did not want to wait longer, so she agreed to give us a tour, but she was very grumpy about it. There were many huge ancient keys in her hand, which were required to open each room.

Church of San Diego

Our first stop was a side chapel which was open to the outside. Traditionally, the priest would preach to the indigenous who were not allowed to mix with the Spanish inside the church. The church and monastery are chock full of famous sculptures and paintings of the Quiteño school. We were rushed past all the artwork, our guide speaking nonstop and in a monotone about the various pieces of art. This was a Franciscan church and the Father Almeida of 'Hasta La Vuelta Señor' had studied and lived in this convent. He had climbed out of the convent to carouse every night, scrambling over a crucifix who asked him nightly about when he would return. Ultimately he mended his ways and became a devoted priest, but only after many wild adventures and a conversation with Christ. The crucifix he climbed over remains, but when he became a leader in the monastery, he had the window he used to climb through to sneak out cemented in, so as not to be a temptation for other novices.

Paintings and sculptures by famous Quiteño artists fill the rooms of the convent (accessible through thick doors opened by massive keys). We saw a typical priest's bedroom, the rectory, the kitchen, and the workrooms of the convent. The place was a treasure trove of colonial art and lifestyle, and I was delighted to have finally seen it.

I received a phonecall that Emilie and Sam had arrived at the apartment and were waiting for us, so we completed the tour (after seeing what was supposed to be an original Bosch painting) and dashed out of the church courtyard. No taxis were visible, and we risked a walk through the neighbourhood - without incident- until we found one and rushed home. It was wonderful to see our guests and catch up. They had traveled through Panama and Costa Rica and were to be in Ecuador for two weeks. We reviewed itinerary possibilities and decided that after they visit friends in Otavalo and Ibarra, they will visit Mindo, return to Quito, take the bus to Baños, bikeride to Puyo, bus it to Tena and then to Baeza and Papallacta and then back to Quito. I realized how much more of Ecuador I have yet to see and wished I could join them on their journey.

Old Frescoes Revealed

Packed and Ready to Go

2010-06-30T20:50:00.001-07:00

Plaza Grande

Our lease is up on July 7th and we are to fly out on the 13th of the month, so I am feeling some urgency about getting all my belongings organized. I had a huge pile on one side of my bedroom and today I decided to devote all my energies to that pile and not leave the house until I had mastered it. I gave Maya a list of violin tasks to do while I dove in. And I focused and persevered and by noon the pile was gone. Except that the pile on the left side of the room was much larger. The left side holds everything that I plan to put into the four suitcases Maya and I are allowed to fly with.

Our major outing of the day was to go by Ecovia to the Mariscal to purchase another suitcase. Eric had directed me to Amazonas next to the Coffee Tree, where I found an expandable bag on wheels. It can be small and it can be enormous. I am not sure about the quality, but it will do for the journey to Baltimore.

Orchestra and violin lessons took over the late afternoon and evening, but I was able to pack up the four bags and get them out of my room into the hallway. The children of a friend of mine from Paris were due to arrive at 7PM, and Maya and I decided that they would sleep in the big room with the double bed, while we shared the twin bed in Maya's room. They were delayed out of Panama city and when they finally got to Caracas, they missed their flight to Quito and had to stay overnight near the airport and catch another flight tomorrow.

I was relieved that I had made so much progress with my bags, I feel far more prepared to leave and am reassured that I do not have too much to bring. I am leaving several large boxes of books and papers in Ecuador, mostly because they are too heavy and not essential. I am not sure I will ever have use for them, but I cannot throw them away or give them away, at least not yet.

The house is looking good, I am almost packed and ready to go, but of course I am not ready to leave. I am going through the motions and accomplishing what must be accomplished but I would rather not go at all. Perhaps if I go through all the motions, I will start getting excited about returning to my life, a life that feels so far away and so foreign.

Archeology Day

2010-06-29T07:02:00.001-07:00

Along the Pacific

We woke up to mist and rain again today, thankful that we had stayed on the beach all day yesterday. It was our final day at 'Mantaraya', so it was our last opportunity to visit the archeological remains in the area. The Machalilla Park is the site of several significant ancient cultures. The Valdivians, the Chorrerra, the Machalilla, the Bahia and the Manteños all settled in the area and left their mark, and there is evidence of Inca remains as well. A local indigenous group developed their pueblo into a tourist site after archeologists excavated some graves and discovered evidence of a large community of over 5000 inhabitants of the Manteño culture (800 to 1500 AD). Agua Blanca is part of the Machalilla Park, and one enters into the community through a gate to arrive at a museum filled with Manteño artifacts. Our guide was 'Klever' and he led us through the museum and the gravesites and the whole community. He realized very soon that we were interested in birds, so he took his bird book with him and identified every bird we saw.

Ready for an Expedition

Funerary Urn

Manteño Chair

Manteño Head

Gravesite

Foundations of Buildings

There was a group of large urns nearby, filled with skeletons in the fetal position, and we were led to the site to see the urns in situ. The Manteño people were buried near their homes and the archeologists presume that there are many more urns and burial sites nearby. We walked through the agricultural area of the community, where bananas and papayas and cotton and many more crops are grown for the group of 280 individuals who live in Agua Blanca. Maya was thrilled to see baby pigs and goats and horses and took copious pictures. We saw vultures and owls and motmots and a brilliant red 'vermilion flycatcher' followed us wherever we went.

Birding Expedition

Iguana in a Tree

Motmot

Vermilion Flycatcher

Owl

Ani

We walked through the 'dry tropical forest' typical of the Machalilla park area, but we saw cloud forest a little higher where we were told we could find monkeys and anteaters and other larger mammals. The dry forest looks dead and brown, but is lush and green during the winter months when rain is more substantial. Birds were everywhere, making lots of noise and not at all timid.

Frog

Banana Leaf

Squirrel

Typical Home

Lizard

Foundation stones suggesting large structures of the Manteño civilization had been partly excavated, but until there is more funding, all exploration is halted. The local community is making an effort to maintain what has already been excavated, and is hoping that one day the archeologists will return and uncover the much more extensive ruins that are suggested by what has already been found. Certainly what we saw was impressive. It has been proposed that this particular spot was one of the major ceremonial centres of the Manteño people.

We visited a volcanic 'laguna', filled with mud that is reputed to have healing properties. The pool smelled sulfuric, and we were urged to put our feet in the water (most tourists come to swim in the water, which is tepid and an eerie blue grey colour). An egret came by to visit, and we saw more motmots and our little red bird came back to watch us.

Egret

I would have loved to see more archeological collections. Unfortunately, very little is well excavated or properly displayed. There is a small museum in Salango, about six kilometers away from Puerto Lopez, but we did not have a chance to see it. Much of what was excavated in the area are in museums in other countries. There is either no money to put together the projects necessary to excavate remains, or perhaps there is not adequate interest.

Maya Lost her Tooth!

We had a flight back to Quito from Manta at 7:30 PM, and a bus was to leave Puerto Lopez at 2 and at 4. We could probably have made it to Manta on time with the 4 PM ride, but I was nervous about being late for the flight, so we rushed to catch the earlier bus, and arrived in Manta with enough time to visit the Malecon, eat yummy shrimp in a restaurant with the view of the beach and wander up and down on the sand. Manta is a modern and well kept city, thriving and energetic and certainly well worth another visit. We arrived at the airport in good time and were home and ready for bed before 9.

Along the Coast to Manta

Buzzards Everywhere

Beach Day!

2010-06-28T17:39:00.000-07:00

Los Frailes Beach

Rain or shine, today was to be a beach day, and so it was, and an absolutely marvelous one. We took a 'motortaxi', which is a motorcycle which has been attached to a two wheeled buggy. The contraption hardly looks safe, and is loud and slow, but is the premiere mode of transport throughout the town of Puerto Lopez, and up and down the road that follows the shore. We arrived at Los Frailes beach before 10, established our space a little to the left of the entrance, and explored in both directions. Maya was in her bathing suit in minutes, despite the lack of sun and threatening rain. We followed the pelicans diving into the water to the left of us. They were busy fishing and ignored us. There were tide pools with crabs and sea urchins and sea stars, so Maya was scrambling all over the rocks. Two small very inviting enclosed beaches on the other side of the rocks beckoned, but there was no dry sand to sit on, so we did not move our 'spot'.

Sea Star

Fishing Pelican

A Beach of her Own

I settled in to read a book that has been difficult to get into, while Maya took her time gradually wading into deeper and deeper water. The surf was strong and she was battered about a bit by the waves. I was hoping to get warm before I made the plunge, but at one point, I felt compelled to join her in the water. It was warmer than expected and became warmer and warmer the more I splashed about. I could hardly fight the current, and was swept under a few times, so I was surprised that Maya could remain standing.

Watching Pelicans

Watching Crabs

We were the only ones on the beach for a time. A group of children joined us for a while and we felt a bit safer with so many more people in the water. Later, we took a walk toward the cliffs to the right and climbed to the top of a 'Mirador' with views in all directions, and by now there must have been some sun peeking out through the clouds, so we could see more clearly. I never put any sunscreen on either of us, which was not too wise, since both of us burned a little by the end of the day.

Malecon Puerto Lopez

Our original plan was to visit an archeological site for the afternoon, but we were enjoying the beach too much and did not want to move. It was peaceful and quiet and relaxing listening to the surf and reading and walking and body surfing and swimming. We waited until closing time (the beach is part of Machalilla park, which closes early, at 4 PM) to find a motortaxi and visit Puerto Lopez for a while, before going back to the hotel. We were both red and shining and feeling wonderful after our first true 'beach day"!

Restaurants on the Malecon

Back at the Lodge

Mist, Rain and Whales

2010-06-27T06:34:00.001-07:00

A Day to Play

Beach Puerto Lopez

It was a grey, misty, rainy, warm day without a glimpse of sun. We joined an Argentinian couple and a group of giddy Guayaquileños for a day long trip to Isla de la Plata, the 'poor man's Galapagos', where blue and red footed boobies, frigate birds and albatrosses can be found. We drove to Puerto Lopez and walked along the beach, where all the fishing boats were pulled up on shore. It was Sunday, so it was a day of rest and the fishermen were on their beached boats fixing their fishing nets. We had to hitch up our pants and wade out to our boat, where I insisted on climbing to the front so I could look out for whales. The waves were huge and I soon became soaked from the spray. Maya and the rest of the young women moved to the protected area of the boat but I continued to sit and get wet. There was an American fellow with his Ecuadorian girlfriend who became seasick and entertained the group as he vomited off the end of the boat.

Fishing Boats

Ready to Go

We were far out to sea and near the island when we saw our first whales, a group of humpbacks coming up for air and breathing out of their blowholes. We followed them about and saw one jumping out of the water some distance away. This was a circumstance where having my good camera would have been marvelous. Instead, I had not charged the batteries and I tried instead to catch these incredible creatures with my point and shoot, but it is delayed a few seconds and so I missed every great shot! After a while, I gave up on the camera and simply enjoyed watching these massive creatures move about. One came close to the boat, delicately rolling around, floating belly up and moving its surprisingly delicate flippers carelessly. I was in awe!

Whale Tail

Whale Fin

I guess we were following the whales around for a couple of hours, which felt like no time at all. We headed for the island, called 'Isla de la Plate' because apparently Sir Francis Drake had to rid himself of his less valuable cargo one trip and left all his silver on the island, hidden, never to be found again. The other less intriguing story is that the guano on the cliffs (bird poop) shone in the moonlight looking like silver.

Humpback Fin

Whale

The whale watching was so incredibly amazing, there was no way that anything else could compare. Isla de la Plata is not a volcanic island like Galapagos, it was once attached to the mainland. The vegetation is the same as on shore; dry tropical forest which currently looks dead but isn't. Brown, stunted, leafless for now, but in the (winter) rainy season, everything is green and lush (hard to envisage currently). Blue footed boobies and frigate birds were plentiful; there were fewer red footed boobies, but we did see a few from afar. The albatross colony was on the other side of the island, so we missed them. We saw mockingbirds and tropicbirds and lovely views of craggy shorelines. We walked and walked and walked and covered half the island.

Boobie

Blue Feet

Frigate Male

Frigate Young

There was an opportunity to snorkel as we motored away from the island. The fish were colourful and hungry and swarmed around the boat scrounging for scraps, and we obliged. Maya and I were the only snorkelers, which we did for a short while. The water was surprisingly comfortable and the bay protected, so despite the grey skies and misty rain, for a short time, it felt like a beach vacation.

Boobie Couple

Nazca Boobie

Red Footed Boobie and Young

Sea Full of Fishes

We drove back to Puerto Lopez in a straight line, as quickly as possible. I saw some whales far away in the distance, but we were back on shore in record time. Hot chocolate and cookies were waiting for us when we arrived at the lodge, along with a crackling fire. We warmed up with the Argentinian couple who were from Mendoza, high up in the Andes, and I found that I had no difficulty understanding them or having a freeflowing conversation, which felt great.

Shoreline

Hoping for Sunshine

2010-06-26T04:01:00.001-07:00

Ecuador is a Land of Orchids

Off we go. Another beach vacation that does not quite turn out to be the beach vacation we planned. It is summer in the southern hemisphere and therefore it is in fact winter. There is no sun and it rains and drizzles and the sky is unrelentingly grey. Our day started with wonderful Quito sunshine. We flew past Cotopaxi and Chimborazo and turned tight toward the Pacific and on to Manta. Maya and I were so very excited in anticipation of warmth and sunshine and sand. We chose to save the $70 trip to Puerto Lopez and take the bus. Our taxi driver from the airport offered to drive us for $35, but we still (why oh why?) insisted on the bus. We were delighted to find a bus headed for Puerto Lopez at the makeshift 'bus station' (a gathering place with buses) waiting to leave, but then we found ourselves waiting some more to collect additional passengers. And waiting and waiting. The world cup was being televised but I was no longer interested, so I did not pay attention to who was playing . It was over an hour later that we finally left the bus station for the drive down the coast. We stopped every few miles for more passengers, and the bus filled up until the aisles were impassable. Maya was horrified with the film choice, about young girls who are kidnapped and trained to be assassins. Buses always choose these violent martial arts movies to entertain us, and one cannot help but watch, since the volume insists. I hardly watched the scenery, it was grey and uninviting anyway.

When we arrived in Puerto Lopez, a unkempt little town on the water, we got off the bus but promptly got back on to pick up more passengers and ride up the hill to our hotel. Finally, four hours later, we climbed up to the entrance to our colourful home for the next few days, shrouded in fog and mist and grey and the sky drizzling incessantly. The incredible view of the Pacific from our room never materialized.

View of the Sea

After lunch, we asked where we could go for an afternoon adventure. Our hotel was not on the beach as we imagined it to be. There was not enough time to go too far, so Eduardo, the manager of the lodge, suggested we walk out to the road, turn left, find a water facility on the left side to the road and turn right past an empty building on the right side of the road. There was a sign prohibiting us from taking the path we found, since the beach was a nesting site for sea turtles, but we had been advised to ignore the sign. There was a misty rain falling, we were in flip flops, certainly not appropriate footwear, but we forged ahead anyway. Two inches of mud stuck to the bottom of our shoes, which was not easy to get rid of. I finally took my flip flops off, and the mud collected on the soles of my feet so I felt protected. The path was narrow and overgrown with vegetation and went on and on. We could hear the ocean, so we persisted, and finally came to a wonderfully secluded beach. The waves were pounding, there were seabirds fishing, we were alone in this exquisite corner of the world. It was still raining lightly. I spent a long time in the tepid water cleaning off my shoes and feet and hands and whatever else was caked with mud. It was a small patch of sand with rocky cliffs at either end.

Our Private Beach

We were less muddy and far wetter when we started our climb out. We heard birds everywhere -- this is likely a birder's paradise! Maya immediately got a stick of wood in her foot, which I pulled out but left much of it in her sole. I had foregone my flipflops, but Maya kept hers on as she struggled up the hill in the rain. We arrived back in our room wet and bedraggled and spent as long as we could getting warm in the shower.

Mist and Grey

These Snails Appeared Everywhere

Our evening was devoted to reading and relaxing. I realized our 'beach' vacation was not going to be lolling about in the sun and surfing waves. We were on the 'Ruta del Sol' near Machalilla Park, with dry tropical forest and archeological treasures to explore, and Isla de la Plata nearby, and whales to see.

Rocky Cliffs

On to the Beach

2010-06-25T20:03:00.000-07:00

Folkloric Dance

St Augustin at Night

I have lost my enthusiasm for soccer. In truth, I rarely watch any sports. The exception is the World Cup every four years, and I always cheer for Italy. I remember watching every game during my internship year at St. Mary's Hospital in Montreal, I went to the Rosebowl when Brasil won against Italy after overtime and a shootout, I was in Berlin four years ago and watched almost every game through to the final, with great enthusiasm and excitement. Ecuador was at the World Cup that year, and it was fun to cheer the team on with all Ecuadorian flags and fans. This year, I started watching every game, but when France imploded and then Italy failed to get through the first round, and of course Ecuador never qualified anyway, I am struggling with who to cheer for. And it is too difficult to watch the teams I care about do so poorly. Ecuadorians are quite happy to see the South American teams do well, but I am not quite there yet. I am avoiding television screens, which are turned on to the games all day. All the more reason to go to the beach and stay outside.

Deciding on going to the beach was easy. Choosing which one to visit was more of a challenge. Esmeraldas is six hours away by bus, but we would have to leave at 11 PM and arrive at 6 AM. And the beaches are crowded and when I talked to Karin, Maya's violin teacher, to tell her we would miss our violin lesson Monday, she was at the beach at Tonsupe south of Atacames, and told me there was no sun. Puerto Lopez was 10 hours away by bus, and the bus left at 8 PM and arrived at its destination at 6 AM. Unfortunately the bus was full when I checked so that was not an option. Another limitation was that the hotel we chose would have to take credit cards, and that meant that the less expensive options were not possible. I chose a place that would offer me a room and all meals, and decided to take the plane to Manta and a two hour busride along the coast to our destination. Maya does not do well on buses, and urged me to decide on the plane (also payable by credit card). It took all morning to make my decision. When we went to a travel agency to book our trip, it took another two hours of waiting and discussion and pondering and reviewing. This is the Ecuadorian way; nothing is done quickly or efficiently, at least not in my experience.

So we are off to the beach. We will be staying close to Machalilla Park, so if there is no sun, we have archeological ruins and Isla de la Plata (much like Galapagos) nearby. In addition, the whales have started their migration along the coast, and we are expecting to see whales during our visit. Maya does not need sun to enjoy the beach. There is snorkeling and waves and bodysurfing and sand; all that is necessary with or without sun.

Plaza Grande with Lights

Hasta La Vuelta Señor

All Lit Up

There was little time to enjoy the wonderful sunshine in Quito. Maya's orchestra practice is Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays at 3:30 to 5:30. We decided to enjoy our evening in the Centro Historico, where the churches were lit up and after dinner at 'Hasta La Vuelta, Señor', we watched the folkoric dance the Archbishop's Palace. It was a wonderful evening of pasacalles, indigenous and mestizo dances, all of which were familiar to me; I realize how much folkloric dance I have seen this year, and how often I have enjoyed the music and the dancing and the colours and the traditions that are typical for Ecuador. I found myself clapping and stamping my feet with each number. I wonder whether I will ever hear this music when we are back in Baltimore.

Andean Beauty

Inti Raymi Humo

Dancing

Colour

Drama

Swirling

Celebration in Otavalo

2010-06-24T21:33:00.000-07:00

Taita Imbabura

To celebrate the end of school and our impending move forward in our lives, we decided to join the Otavaleños and their celebration of Inti Raymi and St John the Baptist. I did not have a schedule or agenda, I just knew that activities would be in full swing, if not in Otavalo itself, certainly in one of the surrounding communities.

Maya and I did not rush out of the house. We slept in, ate breakfast, practiced violin, waited for Gustavo to come, and finally took a taxi to the Carcelen bus station in the north. We chose the wrong bus, in that I wanted the bus that did not stop every two minutes on its way to Otavalo, but although we were assured that we would get to our destination in record time, the trip took over two hours. We met a young Korean American girl named Sunia, who had arrived a few days prior for a month long trip to Ecuador, and ended up spending the day together.

Plaza de Ponchos Saleslady

Dolls for Sale

Sleeping in the Market

All Dressed Up

Art for Sale

Hammocks

Crocheting New Merchandise

Maya's primary goal for the trip was to visit the pie shop, so once we arrived at the bus station, we walked up to Plaza Bolivar to see if anything was happening on the square. A huge stage was set up and a high school band was practicing, but there was no evidence of a presentation. The streets of Otavalo are relatively empty when it is not Saturday (when kiosks line the streets around the Plaxza de Ponchos). We found the pie shop closed until 4, so we decided to eat lunch instead of dessert for our meal. We wandered around the plaza for a time (rather listless and quiet, it not being Saturday), and Sunia shopped for souvenirs. More interesting was the food market, which although not hopping with activity (some vendors were sleeping amongst the fruit and vegetables) was still colourful and rich in variety and quantity. We waited for the tourist office to open, and armed with a list of activities in Otavalo and the surrounding towns, we put together a plan for the afternoon. The pueblo of San Juan nearby was known to celebrate 'San Juan' most enthusiastically.

Family in San Juan

Dancing Serenely

Near the Church

We walked to the Pana and crossed over to San Juan, where the afternoon events were just beginning. There was a large square in front of a small church, with food booths, several enthusiastic candy makers dramatically pulling sugar cane taffy, and equally enthusiastic participants enjoying their taffy. There were carnival rides for children. Near the church, a 'banda de pueblo' was playing and traditionally dressed couples were dancing elegantly around cases of beer. Drinking is part of the celebration and it starts early in the day. We met a group of young women in modern dress, who assured us that the most exciting events were occurring at San Pablo (near Lago San Pablo), so we joined them on the bus down the Pana to the main square of the town. We saw a stream of people and followed them to a large grassy field enclosed by cement walls. A narrow entrance at one corner led to large groups of Otavaleños wandering about, some picnicking on the ground, a few food booths and a 'stage' enclosed by a string 'gate' on one side of the field. An announcer was describing the events of the evening. A schoolteacher from Otavalo had guided us on the bus and took us under his wing at the festival. The afternoon and evening would be a competition between musician and dance groups. Already throngs of spectators would surround a performing group as they played their instruments and marched in a circle, sometimes changing direction. Voices would join the guitars, drums and flutes, and both women and men danced and swirled.

New music groups would appear and attract followers, and at one point, the official competition began in the enclosure, with the announcer describing the identity of the group, each of which had almost a half hour to perform. The competitors were not allowed to use any amplification, which made it difficult for them, because out in the field other groups attracting followers were sometime using huge speakers and pretaped music to augment their performances. The singing was in Quichua and Spanish and sometimes the spectators joined the performers. I recognized much of the music, having heard it before in my travels.

Chicha was flowing, and the participants made a point of drinking this very traditional drink to replenish themselves. There were cases of Pilsner beer everywhere. Clearly drinking is part of the festivities and we were informed by our schoolteacher that the singing and dancing would get wilder and wilder as the afternoon and evening progressed.

Watching the Dance

Great Pants

Great Headgear

Dancing in Circles

Each group of musicians and dancers were traditionally dressed, including a 'humo' mask or two. This is a mythological character wearing a mask with two faces and twelve horns. The two faces represent night and day, and the horns represent the twelve months of the year. The Aya Uma is considered the spirit of the mountain, which comes down to the communities to accompany the town people during the celebration dedicated to the sun, the moon and nature. Thus, whoever wants to be the Aya Uma must be an honest, hardworking, responsible and respected person among the community. The dancers go around in circles, representing the two solstices and two equinoxes that take place during the year. The dancers stamp their feet while they circle around, as a way to invite Mother Earth to participate in the party, so that it recuperates its vital energies and is ready to begin the new agricultural cycle where the maize and other crops will be cultivated again. It became clear to me that we were at an Inti Raymi festival, that St John the Baptist was secondary, that what I was seeing was the pre Hispanic centuries old tradition, which is what I have wanted very much to see all week.

We stood out as the only gringos in the crowd, and the announcer noticed us and welcomed all of the community and the national tourists as well as the 'estranjeros' to join in the festivities.

Humo up Close

Intent on Dance

Music

Bells Too

We stayed as long as we could, before we took the bus back to the Pana, stood out on the highway and waved down a bus back to Quito, and arrived home exhausted a couple of hours later, happily safe and sound in our beds. We enjoyed our day with Sunia, who was to stay in the area for a few days. We will have to return to have pie, since that was Maya's whole purpose in joining me for the adventure!

Humo on a Lamppost

School is Out!

2010-06-23T22:02:00.000-07:00

Last Day of School

It was the last day of school for Maya and my last Spanish lesson. It feels as if the year ended with a whimper, not a bang. Maya took the bus this morning armed with 30 strawberries to share with her class for an end of year party. She came home subdued, neither thrilled nor disappointed. It felt like just another day, partly because we had to rush across the park to get to orchestra and then violin lesson, which continue for a few more weeks.

I had not planned to end Spanish class this early. I would have preferred to continue until we leave. I have this desperate wish to learn as much as possible and know more and more. I was not ready to say goodbye to Amparo, so I am planning to see her again, perhaps with her son Andres; if not for a lesson, we will get together socially. I am not at all good at saying good-bye. I talked to Luis, the owner of the language school , about when I will be back in Quito. In fact, I have said good-bye to no one. I am not quite ready to leave, to quit, to move on.

I am not sure when I will be ready to acknowledge that we are leaving. I will avoid mention or thought of it for the next three weeks, except that I am challenged daily with packing everything we have in four suitcases each under 50 pounds. I am avoiding that task as well.

On the other hand, I have the luxury of three weeks to anticipate and prepare and organize myself for our departure. I had not planned it this way. I had understood that Maya's school ended on July 9, and had booked our flight a few days later; it was too late to make a change when I discovered my error. In the end, it has turned out to be a gift, these extra three weeks to say good-bye.

Blue Skies Again

More Thoughts About Leaving

2010-06-22T20:19:00.000-07:00

School Celebration

I was thinking about who I would miss when I leave here, who I have become close to, who I will stay in contact with. In truth, we have been here too short a time to become fast friends with anyone. We have good relationships with Eric's colleague Santiago and his family, with the dueños of Sacha Lodge/Casa de Suizo, and Isabel and her family. I see the Canadian women most regularly (one gravitates toward those one has something in common with, although I have not lived in Canada for over twenty years), and have a closer relationship with Maria, whom I see regularly for lunch and sometimes on the weekend when our children play together.

I am disappointed that we have not made more Ecuadorian friends. They are friendly and helpful and appear open to friendships, but there is also a certain reserve that keeps them at a distance. My impression is that family always comes first and when they walk past the high walls that surround their homes, they leave the outside world behind and do not venture out. Perhaps we needed more time to become part of that inside world. Certainly we have been busy with visitors for months now, so we have been less available than we were our first months here. Time would have made a difference.

Initially I believed that the only way I could really become part of this new world was to learn the language. I was too frustrated those first weeks when I could not maintain a conversation. Speaking Spanish was an essential to understanding this culture, how Ecuadorians think and feel. I am still learning, and I have far more to learn.

My closest Ecuadorian companion has been my Spanish teacher Amparo, who I have spoken with for many many hours. She has certainly opened my eyes to her life and to some of the ways of thinking that I run into everyday. I imagine that with more time, we would become closer and be true friends.

I have been feeling lately that I really do not know anything, or not enough at all about Ecuadorians. I have had a taste of this country and the people and their culture and their character, and what I know so far has encouraged me to try to dig deeper and know more. But I have run out of time.

I was invited to Maya's going away party at her school. Her classmates each wrote out small cards with something to say about Maya and their experience with her. She was surprised by all the fuss and held back from the fray. I have learned this year that she is timid and reserved and 'warms up slowly'. She has struggled with friendships at her school. Initially it was the language barrier that kept her away, but I also wonder if it was knowing that she would be here for a year only that prevented her from investing too much in her friendships. Her teacher had printed up cards with her email and she handed them out to her classmates. I am curious as to which ones she will stay in contact with and who she will want to see when we return in January.

Leaving School

Reflections

2010-06-21T19:36:00.000-07:00

Contemplating Pichincha

With our year in Ecuador coming to an end, I find myself thinking about how this experience has changed me and my family. Our lives here have been so remarkably different from that we knew, that it is difficult to compare 'before' and 'after'.

I have learned that we are adaptable, that we have been challenged and have overcome obstacles and disappointments and roadblocks and prevailed. I am amazed at Maya who was excited about coming here, struggled for months at her new school, but has learned a foreign language and has grown and matured and adjusted. I wonder if it is so difficult to leave because we faced such a bumpy transition.

I learned that even far away in another world, we are who we are (wherever you are there you are) and don't change much. My family tells me that I am so much less stressed here, and there is no doubt that my life is more relaxed, but I still get anxious and angry and happy and sad and find it impossible to give up control entirely. I am still driven and intense and running constantly, no different than I am in my former life.

I found out that my life is not defined by my profession. I thought it was; after 28 years as a psychiatrist, I believed that my identity was centred around being a doctor and taking care of patients, but instead, I learned that my profession was less relevant than I thought. I still am who I am without what I do. I was surprised by that.

I learned that I could live with very limited means. I could wear the same clothes every day for a year, without makeup, without a haircut, and after a while it did not really matter what I looked like, and I still felt exactly the same about who I am.

I knew that I loved to travel and learn about new people and cultures and histories, and this year has been a treasure trove of exposure to unknown worlds. I want to travel and see and learn more than ever now. I am not sure that is necessarily a good thing. It will make it more difficult to return to regular everyday life.

The year has brought my family ever closer, probably because we have faced all sorts of adventures and challenges together. I feel so lucky to have had so much more time with Maya. I have come to know her much better and appreciate who she is in a way I was unable to before. I have become accustomed to spending more time with Eric, which makes it more difficult when he is away; I am not sure that is a good thing.

The bonus has been learning to speak a new language and how to dance the salsa!

Inti Raymi

2010-06-20T19:48:00.000-07:00

View From Mitad del Mundo

I could hear the rain falling before I woke up, which was not reassuring, so I took my time getting up and moving. It was cold and wet and miserable, and the mountains were shrouded in clouds. One option for the day was to get up early and catch a bus for Cochasqui, where a full day of winter solstice festivities were planned. It is one of the biggest indigenous festivals of the year, and later in the week, the holiday of St John the Baptist and St Peter and St Paul morph out of the more traditional Inti Raymi event to extend the celebration. But with such miserable weather, it was difficult to get enthusiastic about wandering about in the cold for the day.

Maya and I took advantage of a momentary lull in the raindrops and sped over to Corfu for breakfast, where we settled under some braziers and warmed up while watching the Italy-New Zealand World Cup game. It was so much warmer than in the apartment. We have neither heat nor AC, and usually have no need for it. But our clothing is cotton and not at all adequate for the current weather, so there is no way to warm up at home other than to take a hot shower.

We are missing very few world cup games. Every television in every shop and cafe and restaurant is tuned into a game. The Spanish school last Friday was held hostage by soccer, the salsa school has a soccer game going at all times, and I am in the habit of putting the television on when I wake up to check the first game of the day. World Cup results are on everybody's radar, so I cannot not be au courant. Except that all the teams I care about are doing poorly. Ecuadorians seem happy if any South American team wins; I guess I am not quite Ecuadorian yet.

Walking the Equator Line

Once the sun appeared, but even then it was not consistent or forceful, Maya and I decided to check out the 'Inti Raymi' festivities at the Mitad del Mundo, which were advertised on the 'Quito Metropolitana' website. I called Vladimir for a taxi ride, but did not feel that the drive merited $25, so asked our guard how to get there by bus. He gave us excellent instructions and it turned out that taking three public buses for a total of 104 cents total, was easier than expected. We took the first bus to Avenida America (37 cents for both), walked a short way to the 'Brasil' Metrobus stop, sat for the long trip to 'Ofelia' bus station (another 37 cents), where changed to the 'Mitad del Mindo bus (30 cents) for another long ride. We were the objects of much interest, as the only gringos anywhere during our trip.

Pichincha Drum

Chimborazo Poncho

Saraguro Attire

The Mitad del Mindo complex (the wrong centre of the world measured by the original French Geodesic Mission in the 1700's) was packed with cars and visitors, most of which were locals and only a smattering of tourists. The stage area was packed with revelers, but the music was mostly awful, at least when we arrived. Five scantily clad women were gyrating to unremarkable Ecuadorian pop music. Maya and I found a balcony with a covering to stay out of the rain and hope for a better music act. After a while we gave up and visited the Ethnographic museum where we took turns being travel guides. Once out of the museum, the rain was abating and a more traditional music group was playing. Classic pasillos and pasacalles were the rage, and the audience was dancing and singing along. The third group was a big band with lots of trumpets, and played jazzy Ecuadorian favourites and the audience was even more enthusiastic. I had read that Jacchigua would be dancing, but when I asked about them (there was a huge sign announcing their participation) I was told that they would be there next week!

Everybody Dancing

Trumpets and Jazz

Resting and Dancing

It was almost dark when we decided to hail a bus on the road (you put your hand out and wave it up and down, just like you would call for a taxi) and we retraced our way back home in the dark. It was straightforward but took more than an hour. I felt so accomplished; that I had made the effort to make such a long trip through the city by public transportation (without Eric, who we are missing terribly). It would have been much easier to go by taxi, and normally I would have been too anxious to take the risk of getting lost or stranded or robbed or frustrated. We arrived home intact.

Clouds over Pululahua

I was disappointed that we missed a genuine Inti Raymi festival. I went online once home and learned that the true event begins the night of June 22, and continues for days afterward. As I mentioned above, the Catholic holidays of St John the Baptist and St Peter and St Paul grow out of and extend for several days after the actual summer/winter solstice celebration. The places to go are Otavalo, Peguche, Cotacachi and other small towns around Otavalo, so perhaps Maya and I will head north after school ends Wednesday to participate in the fiesta, unless of course the beach beckons, which may be impossible to say no to.

Pigeons Watching Us

Trees Watching Us

It was Father's Day today, and we missed our fathers and grandfathers. Ecuadorians take this occasion very seriously and all week, we have been reminded of all sorts of weekend activities devoted to celebrating the day. We checked on skype repeatedly to try and get through without success until finally very late, Eric called and talked to us in the dark. Opa/Dad, Happy Father's Day, we miss you!

Grandfather and Granddaughter

Teatro Bolivar

2010-06-19T20:22:00.000-07:00

Grey Skies over the Centro Historico

Ancient Shaman

Quito has decided not to be summer for now. I heard the rain before I woke up and it continued to come and go all day. It was so cold, I dug through my suitcases for my warmest clothes and piled on the layers and was still cold. Most of the year has been unseasonably warm and sunny, so I am not accustomed to dressing for the chill. The usual weather is six months of 'winter' with daily afternoon rain and warming up in the middle of the day. We missed winter entirely and had just sunshine for months. Summer is usually dry and windy and warm and sunny. For now, winter has come during the summer months and it gets colder and colder daily.

Rain, Wet, Grey, Misty

Maya had a violin concert to prepare for at the Ministry of Culture on Colon and Juan Mera. We listened to alot of awful singing before the violins came on. Maya got through her pieces without difficulty, so we sighed in relief and bundled up to return home and dress and prepare for the ballet event. I was responsible for makeup, which I have very little of, but enough to do the job. Once at the theatre, I was not allowed in with Maya. I left her at the door of the burned out building. The Teatro Bolivar was the premiere venue for artistic events in Quito before it burned down ten years ago. It is a lovely theatre, and deserves to be lovingly restored, but instead, it is used for functions as is, the burnt out sections untouched. It is a little creepy, but it is evident that this was once a grand and impressive building.

Festival in Defence of the Revolution!

Rain and Music

I braved the rain to walk to San Fransisco where a concert was playing 'in Defence of the Revolution'. Correa describes what he is doing for Ecuador as a 'revolution'. and there have been ads daily through the world cup games describing the wonders of the revolution. Quite the propaganda campaign. The concert was classic Ecuadorian music, and the audience stood under umbrellas or crowded under the tents used to house music equipment. I was not too far from the Casa Alabada, where I wandered for an hour admiring the incredible collection and feeling more comfortable than when I visited the Colonial Museum. I am convinced that this is the best pre- columbian collection in Quito, perhaps in Ecuador.

Kidneys, Stomach and Uterus Circa 500 AD

Mother and Child

Jama Coaque

Chorrera

Manteño Guancavilca

Chinese?

Shaman

Chorrera

I joined the line of parents, some waiting since they let their children off. They had been told that doors opened at 5, but when I arrived at 5:15, the line was still getting longer and thicker. I think we got in a half hour later, and although the theatre filled rapidly, we were able to get good seats. Maya danced beautifully, as did her friends and the entire company. The ballet mothers have been a big part of my life her and I will miss them. We exchanged email addresses and promised to stay in touch. Maya will miss her friends from ballet. She will have no more lessons at Fundacion Danza. I want her to rest her feet anyway; the pointe shoes have hurt her feet and we must visit a podiatrist. Meanwhile I have been giving her foot massages nightly and she has developed a great appreciation of having her feet rubbed. I hope all this pointe work has not damaged her feet irrevocably.

Maya and Melanie in Full Makeup!

Whew what a day. Too much for Maya and too much for me. I was delighted to walk through the Centro Historico on a Saturday night. Fireworks were nearby so the sky was lit up colourfully. I have no idea what the occasion is. Clearly the Centro is a happening place at night. For Maya and I, it was time to go home and eat and get to bed and rest up.

In Costume

Colonial Art

2010-06-18T18:05:00.000-07:00

Grey on Grey Plaza San Fransisco

We transfered the truck to Santiago's care (friend and colleague of Eric) today. I did not feel ready to say goodbye to my absolutely favourite vehicle ever. I have felt safe and protected in the Landcruiser, and will miss it. But when Santiago came, Maya and I took the elevator down to the minus 3 level to help guide him out of our very tight spot without scraping off the top of the truck, and then said good-bye. I wish we could take the truck with us, my fantasy has always been to drive from Baltimore to the tip of South America and back. When I proposed this to Eric, he was quite adamant that it is not possible to drive through Columbia, so we shelved the project, but it still sounds like a good idea.

I have been asking everyone for advice about where to go to the beach once school is over. I am cautioned over and over again re safety issues, in that the places I can afford are not advisable for a woman alone with a child, but the 'safe' resorts are simply not possible for me. Santiago suggested we stay at his inlaws' place in Esmeraldas, and will check to see if it is available. It appears to be a complex of condominiums in an enclosed area with pools and a private beach; not at all what I imagined, but quite wonderful nonetheless. We will be absolutely thrilled if this works out for us!

Maya has three more days of school left, but had today off (I have no idea why). It worked out well for her, because she had a rehearsal at the Teatro Bolivar downtown for the afternoon, and I was not sure how I would manage that with school finishing at 3. While Maya danced throughout the afternoon, I enjoyed the Centro Historico except that it was raining and cold and getting colder as the afternoon progressed. It was a museum visiting sort of day, and I returned to the Museo Colonial, in an effort to appreciate the style of art more than I have. My inclination is always to direct myself to the pre-Columbian collections. At the Banco Central, after seeing display case after display case of the incredible art of the pre-Inca indigenous cultures, the colonial section feels incongruent and unsettling. The captions inform the viewer of the destruction of all that came before the Spanish, and the imposition of the religion and values and styles of the West. The local craftsmen and artists were instructed in western art techniques, which were all directed entirely to religious art. Somehow looking at the colonial art emphasizes the incredibly oppressive conquest of the original inhabitants of the continent.

Grey Plaza Grande

Selling Ice Cream

Mannequins on the Balconies

So I have been uncomfortable when I see the bloody crucifixes and mannerist 'virgins with child', so today I wanted to spend more time and appreciate the aesthetic more than I usually do. The museum is set up as a guided history of the growth of Quito the Spanish/colonial city. Initially the focus is on all the religious orders that established themselves in Quito soon after the city was designed after the conquest. The priests brought craftsmen and artists with them who taught the local mestizos and indigenous inhabitants how to sculpt and paint for God, and both converted their religion and their way of seeing. The first generations of artists all signed their work 'anonymous', but later, by the 17th and 18th centuries, some artists began standing out from the rest, and signed their work. When the local artists became more comfortable in their new style, they began to assert themselves, by painting local landscapes with familiar flora and fauna, mestizo faces and native dress. I had been told all this before, but never really saw the differences. I spent time today to look for clues that the paintings were Ecuadorian. There is a distinctive Quiteño style, which I can now recognize, but today I began to see more, and appreciate the art more than I have before.

La Merced

Pigeons on Plaza San Fransisco

Campaign to Protect Women

It was drizzling when I left the museum, so I dashed into La Merced for a short visit, and then to San Fransisco, which is further down from La Merced, and then stopped into Casa Alabado just to get in out of the rain. When I returned to the Teatro Bolivar, the ballerinas were not out yet, so I spent some time in the Plaza Grande reading huge billboards lined up in front of the Independence memorial statue in the centre, describing the history of Manuela Saenz, the lover of Bolivar and one of the Quiteño women famous for her role in Ecuadorian independence.

La Compañia

Maya and I stayed in the Centro Historico for dinner. She likes to eat at 'Hasta la Vista, Señor', where local specialties fill the menu. I like llapingachos with chorizo and egg and avocado. I am not sure when we will have another chance to eat there. Maya and I took turns reading the Spanish and English sides of the placemat describing the story of Father Almeida, who used to escape from the monastery to carouse with his friends and women of the night. He would climb over a crucifix to get through a window in the chapel to get out for the evening. Christ would talk to him and ask him when he would stop the behaviour. At some point he realizes the error of his ways and decides to stay in the monastery and do good work. The intriguing part of the story is that early on in Quito's history, with so many priests and religious orders in the city, it was not unusual for the young priests to regularly party and drink and consort with working girls, without much consequence. So much for 'holy' behaviour. It appears that it was expected that the errant monks would one day realize the error of their ways and get back on track.

I had wanted to stay for the folkloric dance at 7:30, and we saw the dance troupe arriving and preparing for the show, but it was cold and rainy and we decided Maya needed to get warm and into bed early to prepare for her concert and ballet performance tomorrow. No taxis were available (whenever it rains everyone gets into cabs and it is very difficult to find an empty one), but the Ecovia was fast and easy and by the time we arrived at 'Naciones Unidas' the rain had stopped and we arrived home cold but dry and ready to cuddle into bed to get warm.

Chasing Pigeons

Emptiness

2010-06-17T20:29:00.000-07:00

Mother and Children Feeding the Pigeons

The apartment is empty and very very clean, now that Eric and his wild packing frenzy is over. He landed safely in Baltimore, and checked on the house, which is both better and worse than expected, and probably will be inhabitable by the time I arrive. What a relief!

Meanwhile, Maya and I had a usual Quito weekday. Her school activity was a visit to the Artesanal Market, where she was expected to bargain and negotiate, as part of her 'marketing' unit of study. Maya has great skills in the marketplace, and had a very successful experience.

Plaza San Francisco

We saw a Chilean movie in Spanish class (it was movie day today because our usual Friday time was supplanted with a world cup futbol game). I find it confusing to try to understand all the different Spanish dialects. Chileans swallow their words and I understood little today. I prefer Argentinian Spanish, which is clearer and does not lose syllables, but the verb forms are different. Spanish from Spain always makes me laugh when I hear the lisping. We saw the film without subtitles, which forces me to pay more attention, but invariably I miss much of the film.

Quito Spanish is unique in its use of the diminutive form 'ita', added to almost any word, and more often than not in excess. Mamita, aguita, mijita, abuelita, the list goes on and on and can be amusing to listen to. Any word can be diminutized, sometimes quite incongruently.

Funeral Procession

I saw snippets of each soccer game throughout the day; the first aired at 6:30, the second midmorning, and the last in the early afternoon. Soccer will simply take precedence anytime and everywhere we will be for the next three weeks. Ecuadorians love their soccer and cheer for any and all South American teams.

A return to the Centro Historico filled up the day after Spanish class. I have missed my old haunts. There was a massive protest on the Plaza Grande with scores of participants lined up across from riot police with shields and batons. I was unable to ascertain what the protest was about. I visited the Centro Metropolitano to see what exhibits were showing. A photo essay about he Schuar in the jungle was most interesting. There was also a showing of artists work from Cadiz, Spain, which was less compelling. I continued to Plaza San Fransisco, where there were tent kiosks set up around what was to be a stage. I could not figure out what the occasion was, but I will be in the centro tomorrow while Maya does her rehearsal at the Teatro Bolivar, and on Saturday when she is there for the show six hours early. I will run off to see what is going on in front of the Church of San Fransisco. For today, I watched the pigeons being fed and families and children and clowns wandering by. There was a sedate funeral rolling by, and all sorts of students, parents, children, shoe shiners and policemen strolling about. I wanted to stay longer, but dragged myself away down toward La Marin to get home in time to meet Maya for her evening activities. It was a not an unusual situation for Maya (superchild!) to try to be two places at once (violin and dance practices), but Maya has amazing powers to manage impossible rehearsal circumstances (violin and dance performances on the same day and sometimes at the same time!).

Mother and Children Selling Scarves

Coming home to an empty house was disconcerting and I am feeling sad again about leaving and losing this life I have made for us so far away from what is familiar. I am missing Quito before I am gone.

Narrow Street

Going, Going, Gone

2010-06-16T19:18:00.000-07:00

Cathedral Tower

Maya and I just escorted Eric down to the street to send him off to the airport for his flight home. He is burdened with three very heavy suitcases and a shoulder bag carrying three computers. I expect that he will encounter difficulties trying to carry on his bags, but I am crossing my fingers for him (everything is possible in Ecuador). When we awoke this morning and I saw the floor of the apartment littered with clothes and papers and equipment and all manner of paraphernalia, I wasn't sure he would get it all packed away in the time he had. I feel lucky to have another month to sort through my piles.

We walked around in shock today, going through the motions, wading through lists of things to do, tasks to be accomplished, organizing, cleaning, discussing concerns, delivering items to CENIT and the university and Hotel Sierra Madre, where we store what we cannot bring with us. Eric and I had our last salsa lesson, which felt wonderful and reassuring. Despite Maya's busy schedule, we were able to celebrate Father's Day at 'Crepes and Waffles' (we risked a 'Pico y Placa ticket, but survived on the roads for 15 minutes with the errant license plate numbers) before sending Eric off for his 11:30 PM flight.

Cathedral Spire

Eric will be in Baltimore only for a few days, to organize the transport of electric fish from his lab at Johns Hopkins to the Marine Biological Laboratory in Woods Hole. He will be setting up for his course and teaching intensely for the next few weeks, which will be a way to transition to our lives in Baltimore. There will be little time to think or feel the sense of loss at leaving Ecuador. I think he is more worried about me and how I will manage. He suggested that Maya and I stay in Florida for a week or so on our way back home, as a way to relax and adjust gradually to leaving Quito ( I am booked in my office August 2 and my house is not inhabitable for now), but his parents refused a request to stay at their exquisite home on the beach (not unexpected but worth a try), so Maya and I will have to look at other possibilities. I promised Maya a vacation at the ocean, which is entirely possible here in Ecuador when school is over, but I am a little anxious about traveling eight hours by bus overnight and staying at an affordable hostel on the beach, and Maya also needs a quiet place to practice and prepare for violin auditions in early August. So we have some planning and reconsidering ahead of us; I am sure we will find something quite perfect to do!

Meanwhile, Maya has another two weeks of school, several dance and music events, and practices nightly, and I have time to keep working on my Spanish and my salsa, to see my friends and say good bye, and many opportunities to revisit and re explore all the delightful corners of Quito that I will miss when we are gone.

Weathervane

Leaving is no Fun at All

2010-06-15T15:22:00.000-07:00

Maya Practicing

The apartment is in chaos as Eric gets packed and organized for his trip back to Baltimore. As always, there is far too much to carry and all sorts of decisions to make as to what to give away, what to store and what must come home. Almost everything we own is spread out in piles all in the living area. Because I want to be sure that Maya and I have enough room in our bags, I have packed as much as I can away in the two bags I currently have, and am assured that we will not be too overwhelmed when we fly back in a month.

Just a Mess

We have been planning this move home for weeks, but despite the foreknowledge and discussion and lamenting, it is still a shock that the year is over and that Eric is going home for good. Maya and I have another month until reality hits.

Eric walks around with a frown, frazzled and stressed and uncomfortable. I was able to avoid the house, by meeting Amparo for a four hour review of verb tenses. For the first time in the last two weeks, I was finally healthy enough to focus and learn something. The parasite or amoeba that took over my body since our trip to Peru has been vanquished and I am feeling lighter and more energetic. Eric met me for coffee and more salsa, and both of us felt very accomplished for the hour.

The World Cup is playing in every coffee shop and restaurant and bar, so I am getting glimpses of almost every game, which conveniently play each early morning, midmorning and early afternoon. Brasil was playing North Korea at 'Son Latina', so we did not miss that game either. Earlier, breakfast at Corfu's was accompanied by more soccer. The Ecuadorian championships are happening at the same time, but the World Cup takes precedence for now. The locals are appreciative of good soccer, but it is clear where their sympathies lie in the rivalry between the old world (Europe) and the new.

Maya is preparing for her role in 'Coppelia' on Saturday at the Teatro Bolivar. We learned yesterday that she also has to play in a concert that same day. Her violin teacher somehow forgot to tell us, and suddenly Maya has to prepare to play two pieces with an accompanist she has never met. Maya was on television again on Sunday. Since we rarely watch local television, or any TV for that matter, we have missed her television appearances each time. I am told by friends and acquaintances after the fact. Ecuadorians like to promote the arts and are especially impressed with talented children!

Maya and Teacher Nina

One of my roles here is to be 'stage mother', or at least support Maya's ballet and violin activities. During the end of the year, she is shuffling the various rehearsals, having performances in ballet, orchestra and solo violin, so she is often slated to be at several places at once and we are always making choices as to which practice to attend. Today it was four hours of ballet on her toes, and it was a pleasure to watch her and her teacher and her friends reviewing snippets of the performance. For now, I am too busy to think much about leaving.

Sunny and Cloudy

Work to Do

2010-06-14T20:29:00.000-07:00

Morning Pichincha

I was surprised to feel fine this morning, after our harrowing drive to and from the coast. I was just sorry to be back in Quito and not on the beach. Maya did not want to go to school and I did not have the energy to object. She dressed in her school clothes and we walked to Corfu's down the street for breakfast. We were both starving after missing too many meals. Maya had orange juice and scrambled eggs and a croissant and hot chocolate, and I had a cappuccino, orange juice, granola, fruit and yoghurt; everything tasted so good!

She changed into her pyjamas and climbed back into bed and did some schoolwork while I packed up all our clothes and tried to go through piles of papers and books, throwing away what was clearly junk, and minimizing the piles as much as I could. Gustavo came and cleaned, and I gave him a couple backpacks of things we could not bring home. My challenge is to get everything we bring back into four bags of 50 pounds each. I had hoped to give Eric a bag or two, but he has more than enough stuff to bring home, including significant amounts of equipment. It is remarkable to see how much paper and books we have accumulated. I wonder if because I have not allowed myself to buy anything this year, instead I have collected printed materials. None of it has to come home, but I have a difficult time giving any of it up.

Day of Packing

Carolina Park

Odd Plants

The piles are smaller, I believe I can get everything into the four bags, my work was done, but the project took up much of the day, so I did not get out of the apartment to enjoy the beautiful sunshine until I walked Maya across Carolina Park to orchestra practice. I decided I needed a moment of repose, so I wandered through the Jardin Botanico and listened to birds and admired the incredible variety of vegetation to be found in Ecuador. From paramo to jungle to cloud forest to montane forest, it was as if I traveled through the country within an hour.

Home Safe and Sound

2010-06-13T18:46:00.001-07:00

Beach at Canoa

Our room was on the second floor with a view of the cliffs to the north and the lagoon immediately in front of us. It was directed away from the activity at the bar, so I had no trouble sleeping hidden under my mosquito net. Maya was up at 6, ready to play in the sand. She was starving, so I agreed to join her for breakfast by 7 (I slept almost twelve hours!). I was surprised that the restaurant was full, and of course the World Cup was playing, with keen observers at the edge of their seats! Maya played with her friend Martina and somehow the morning sped by.

Pedernales Shoreline

Quichua Sign

Beach at Pedernales

We had a choice to drive north along the coast before heading inland toward Quito, or south to Bahia de Caraquez. The plan was to look for another beach for a swim. We decided that we could not tolerate the bumpy road back to San Vicente, so north it was, a little inland initially, past denuded forests and scrappy towns. The road was paved (hurrah!) with little traffic. We saw glimpses of the ocean along the way, especially when we descended to the coastal towns. We stopped at Pedernales, where we had shrimp pizza at the beach, and Maya and Eric went swimming while I watched another World Cup game between Germany and Australia. The beach was packed with locals, and as Eric claimed, the ocean and the water is the same wherever we chose to stop, but the beach was neither clean nor attractive. I had hoped to travel further north and search for another, better beach, but Eric was eager to return to Quito and get back to work. Our funds were dwindling, so it made sense to travel home, but I was disappointed that we had not gone further. We stopped at three gas stations before we found one that took credit cards, and had to try even more places to find a store open so we could buy some ice cream for dinner.

Pizza for Lunch

Cocktails on the Beach

El Carmen

Streets of El Carmen

Santo Domingo

Outskirts of Santo Domingo

Roundabout in Santo Domingo

The road to El Carmen and then to Santo Domingo was paved and easy to drive. From Santo Domingo to Aloag, the road conditions were terrifying, and again, it was dark through most of it, so I was thankful that we arrived home safely. It was a little crazy to drive to the beach and back in two days, and I had never planned it quite this way, but I guess we did get to the beach, although more time there would have been better. I promised Maya we would try to get back to the beach when her school is over.

Our Very Dirty Car

Finally Finding Ice Cream

La Costa

2010-06-12T01:37:00.000-07:00

Moorish Designs in La Compañia

Last night, Maya and I had an invitation to a private concert at 'La Compania', which of course we could not refuse. I was more interested in simply being in the church, marveling at all the gold around me and the wonderful feel of the place. Usually it is a tourist attraction, with a guide and an entrance fee and 'no photographs allowed'. It is an entirely different experience as a church, or as a concert venue. I hardly paid attention to the music, or if I did, it was as part of the awe of the experience. It is always wonderful to be in the Centro Historico at any time, but with the lights and the mist of the evening, it is even more special. Eric drove us down, and the traffic was intense. The Plaza Grande was full of riot police, and we learned later that there had been a big protest, which intensified the traffic, so being late was not a problem (of course, this is Ecuador!) and the concert started a half hour later. Maya's conductor is the concertmaster and her violin instructor is the principal violist. Her conductor from Julliard was there too, so there were many familiar faces, and several people to talk to. I was surprised that so few of her orchestra classmates had chosen to attend.

Main Altar La Compañia

We all got to bed later than planned, and when my alarm sang at 3:30, it was painful to get up, but we did not bother Maya. I set up a bed for her in the truck and buckled her in and we were off in the dark of night. I was surprised that there was anyone on the road at that time, but traffic was light as we took the 'Oriental' to the south and even after we took the turnoff at Aloag towards Santo Domingo de los Tsachilas. I was relieved that it was dark and I did not really see much, only that it was a treacherous ride as we ascended and then descended over the Andes to the western slopes toward the sea. There were many trucks going in the direction of Quito, and often trucks and buses were passing other trucks and buses when there was only one and a half lanes, the road having eroded out in several sections when we had heavy rains in the past few months. There was construction happening everywhere, with 'Peligro' signs aplenty and fear for our lives whenever I opened my eyes.

Driving over the Andes in the Dark

Santo Domingo is a dirty unkempt city. We stayed on the outskirts and it was grey and rainy and not very attractive, so we kept driving on to El Carmen, and then to Chone. The western lowlands have been devastated with 90% deforestation, so it was depressing to see the hills and valleys denuded and likely never to recover. Banana fields cover much of the former forests, but mostly just grass covers everything. With the rain and the destruction, I felt sad and overwhelmed, because it did not appear that anything was being done to help these vast areas to recover, although there were billboards announcing the importance of reforestation along the road. The other shocking sight were the vultures hanging out on the side of the road watching for carrion, or digging into roadkill along the way. I have never seen so many buzzards flying around!

Cows on the Road

Once at Chone, we reached the marshlands near the ocean and took a few wrong turns until we found a very bumpy road with massive potholes for miles and miles until we reached Canoa. I had chosen Canoa without any reason except that it appeared to be far away from civilization and presumably quiet and peaceful. Which it was when we arrived. It is clearly out of season, with most of the beach empty and devoid of tourists, but there was also no sun either, perhaps the reason for its emptiness. We managed to choose a hotel full of gringos! We were simply too tired to look further. We stopped, we asked for a room, it was acceptable, so we took it and sat down for breakfast. Maya found a young girl to play with immediately and was off to look for crabs in the tide pools and I got into my bathing suit for a rest on the sand. The Pacific was warm and there were waves for surfers (Canoa is known as a surfing beach). The afternoon lingered on, Maya was happy to have a playmate, Eric and the children went bodysurfing, I watched the surfers in the water, the sun never shone, but it was restful and we were happy.

Beach at Canoa

Surfer Dude

I discovered that Eric had not brought any cash or his ATM card, which is a problem anywhere in Ecuador. No one ever seems to take credit cards, especially so far away from the major cities. Our short vacation would have to be cut short, which put a damper on things. Anticipating a return to Quito tomorrow after driving an exhausting eight hours to get to our destination was disappointing. We shared a $5 meal of 'pollo con arroz' for lunch while watching the world cup match between USA and England. Somehow we found ourselves watching more and more world cup soccer as the afternoon progressed.

We walked along the beach in both directions. Cliffs beckoned to our right, where we encountered egrets, buzzards and frigate birds, as well as tiny 'Man o War' jellyfish and more and more garbage (the buzzards were very happy). Maya danced and explored and looked for small creatures. The other direction brought us to the fishermen dragging their boats to shore and children playing soccer. The beach is lined with bars and eating establishments, all empty and waiting for tourists.

Maya Dancing

More Dancing

Running
Art on the Beach

Grey on Grey

Action on the Beach

It is curious that Canoa has developed a reputation of being a mecca for gringos. Why Canoa, where there are dozens of little towns up and down the coast. The place has a relaxed and welcoming feel, and once established in our room at the Hotel Bambu, we felt at home and could have stayed for days.

Egret Stare

Waterfowl

Waiting for Fish

Vulture

Egrets Fishing

Posing

Scary Catydid

We were told that only the 'Casa Flor' took credit cards, so we walked a few blocks in the sand to have dinner there, but were informed that no one took credit cards in town, that there were no ATM's or banks and we would have to drive back to San Vicente some 20 kms away to find an ATM, which made no difference since we had no ATM cards anyway. The waitress was very kind and generous and we shared a shrimp dish for all of us with some water, which was satisfying and very yummy. We were surprised to see Lauren Hutton and her family come in for dinner. How in the world did they find this place so far away from the world? We made an effort not to stare!

Our hotel was hopping when we walked home. It appeared that we were staying at the 'happening' place and that tourists and locals and their families were all at the Hotel Bambu for the evening. Maya found her friend to play with and Eric worked on his computer in the melee and I found myself asleep by 7 after a very long day that began at 3:30 AM. I did not want to think about driving all the way back to Quito tomorrow.

Fishermen Bringing in their Boats

Beauty on the Beach

A Long Way to the Beach

2010-06-11T14:56:00.001-07:00

Peruvian Hero on Plaza Argentina

It is Eric's last weekend in Eucador and we have decided we will go to the beach to celebrate. We have not visited the coast at all thus far. I arbitrarily chose 'Canoa', which is eight hours away by car, or probably faster with Eric driving. Our original plan was to travel during the night and arrive in the morning (there are buses that regularly take this route), but as the day progressed, we lost enthusiasm and agreed that getting up early in the morning and driving the truck to arrive around noon makes more sense.

Without planning much, my day filled up with activities. In Spanish class we watched an Argentinian movie, but I kept reading the subtitles instead of listening to the Spanish, so I am not sure how much I learned. Fridays are movie days and I am enjoying movies I would never see if not for Spanish class.

I joined Eric for a penultimate salsa class. We are finally truly dancing, and Eric is so confident he is making up his own moves, which are harder to follow than the ones I expect from him.

I took advantage of another glorious day of sunshine and warm temperatures and walked down Seis de Dicembre, feeling comfortable and relaxed. Few people were walking, and the offices and apartment buildings were quiet. It is an entirely different experience at street level. I am more accustomed to the Ecovia or a taxi, where everything streams by. Walking gives you an entirely different view of the world. I have had the opportunity to walk so much during our year here. I walk across Carolina several times a week, I walk to the bus stop, to the grocery store, to the movies, to the shopping centre nearby. Today was special because I was not in a rush, it was a leisurely walk, so I could pay more attention to the familiar route.

I have been picking Maya up on Suecia for the last two months (rather than at Isabel's or at our door), so her bus can turn right onto Republica del Salvador instead of left in front of our apartment. I expect her at 3:45, but most days she is ten minutes later, sometimes even 20 or 30 minutes late, so I wait and read my kindle and wander in circles on the corner. If it is an orchestra day, we run across the park to get to practice quickly (she cannot play if she is tardy), if it is a ballet day, we go to the apartment to change and then take a taxi to Rio Coca. She has daily practices in preparation for her performance next Saturday at the Teatro Bolivar, but we arranged to have her leave early today so we can get on the road for the beach, except that the beach may not happen tonight.

Eric insists that we take nothing of value with us. The coast is considered less safe than the sierra. There were once bandits on the road to the coast, and we are told to be prepared for such an occurrence. I am trying to decide about my camera, which goes everywhere with me and feels essential. I could not bear it if it was taken from me, but then it is also old and outdated and not very valuable. It is in a pile with the rest of the backpacks, and I will decide when we finally leave whether it comes or goes. On to the BEACH!

Concert at La Compañia

Altar of La Compañia

Bright Days

2010-06-10T19:40:00.001-07:00

So Much Sunshine!

Today was such an incredibly gorgeous sunny day, very typical of most of our days during our year here in Quito. After being cooped up in Spanish class for four hours, I could not get enough of the sunshine. Amparo joined Eric and I at the Artesanal Market. Eric is deciding on gifts to bring back to Baltimore. I had already scouted out prices last week, and we had decided on booth number 143, where Jaime felt he could help us with the 'best prices'! Amparo checked a few more places to be sure that we were in fact getting the best deal, but I am sure there is more room for negotiation. Unfortunately, Jaime was not there, nor was Cecilia, his wife. His daughter told us he was at the 'colegio' where his other daughter went to school and we arranged to return tomorrow.

Walking Up Shyris

Eric drove off to Yanayacu to pack up his equipment and return within 24 hours. I convinced Amparo to walk back to Guayasamin Spanish School in the hot sun. First we negotiated the price of sunglasses for sale from $12 to $6. I kept insisting on $5, since I try not to spend more than that for any pair. The vendor tried to claim that since 'DG' had been pasted on the sides, that the glasses were worth more. Armed with my faux Dolce and Gabbana shades, we enjoyed the warmth and the rays. We stopped for naranjilla and maracuya juices and 'chifles' (plantain chips) and after saying goodbyes, I continued to walk from the Mariscal all the way home.

Gelato on the Corner

I felt emboldened by the sunshine, and did not feel threatened at all. The streets were relatively empty, but anyone I saw was taking care of their own business, and not paying any attention to me, so I breathed in the air (sometimes fresh and sometimes not) and soaked up the sun, and reflected on all the wonderful days we have had during our year in Ecuador, and how I will miss this sun and the view of Pichincha from my apartment window and everytime I leave my house.

On my Way Home

The apartment is looking more and more empty (and I like it more with less in it!). I have packed a box of books and left them with Maria and Gabriel for safekeeping. Eric has stored some items in his office, and we have two massive bags to donate to CENIT. There are more piles and much more work, but I see an end in sight. We are to be out of the apartment by the 7th of July, and I have no specific plans with regard to where we will stay until we catch our plane on July 13. I want to enjoy and appreciate every day until we leave; we have more memories to create, and I have much more on my 'list' of places to see before we go.

Maya on her way to Ballet

Suffering in Spanish

2010-06-09T21:16:00.000-07:00

I thought it was a great idea to return to Spanish lessons during the last few weeks of my stay in Ecuador. I was convinced that after the many months of English speaking guests and visitors, my grasp of the language had deteriorated significantly and that a refresher course was in order. I did not realize that I would find Spanish more complicated and more difficult and more daunting than ever. It is far more complicated and intricate than I remember or ever realized. Amparo tells me it is because I have advanced to the point that I must study at a 'superior' level, but I am more confused than ever and understand little of what she is trying to teach me.

A new dictionary of the Spanish language in Latin America has just been published. Fifteen thousand new 'Americanisms' have been added to the Ecuador edition, including all sorts of Quichua words that have become part of the daily language. I proposed two new words; 'pora', to be used for para or por so that distinctions are not necessary, and 'ester' to be used for both ser and estar. I will add more proposals as they come up. I like the idea that the language is changing and that the powers that be are aware of that and comfortable with the changes. I find it entertaining that the Spanish of Spain is so markedly different than that of Latin America, and that the Argentinians have their own 'interpretation' of Spanish that is so different than other Latin countries. It is more than dialect variations.; history and time and preferences have resulted in all sorts of permutations. I have been watching movies from several different countries and each time I have to adjust to a new way of speaking the language.

I worry that I will lose any facility I have with the language once I return home and have no time or opportunity to speak Spanish ( 'use it or lose it'). I worry about Maya and am trying to think of all sorts of ways to help her maintain what she has learned. She is starting to speak Spanish with more confidence, and does well in her classes at school. Her teacher showed me her final exam and I was astounded when I saw how well she writes and how much she understands. Now that she is finally more comfortable with the language, we will tear her away and she will lose much of it. Not that I can control any of this, it just is.

I am sticking with Amparo for now, although I am not enjoying myself as much as I did initially, I keep telling myself that this is good for me and that I will appreciate my efforts at some point...I simply want it to be so much easier.

Buying Ice Cream in the Park

World Cup Fever

Pico y Placa is Working

Flower Shop Near the House

Corpus Christi

2010-06-08T19:21:00.001-07:00

June is a month full of fiestas occurring throughout Ecuador. Corpus Christi came and went last weekend (I was too preoccupied with being ill and getting Maya ready for her competition to organize an outing to one of the big parades that happened in many of the small towns throughout the country). I spent some time today watching Youtube videos of the event in Pujili, near Latacunga.

Corpus Christi is a celebration of the eucharist in Catholic countries, and occurs nine weeks after Easter, which was June 3 this year (it is a moveable date). Participants wear huge and colourful headresses. I looked through my photos of my visits to the Jacchigua Folkloric Dance performance, and found examples of the typical costumes worn during the celebration.

Corpus Christi is often combined with the Inti Raymi festival which occurs at the summer solstice, a few weeks from now. Inti Raymi is a huge celebration for the indigenous people, especially those who live in the sierra. The festival of St. John the Baptist and that of St Peter and St Paul are significant events that are celebrated in many small towns throughout the country.

I enjoy the costumes and the pageantry and the music and the dance, and try not to miss any of the major fiestas, although I missed Corpus Christi this year. I will have to try to get to Otavalo for Inti Raymi, or to one of the the smaller towns for St Peter and St Paul. The fiestas are best celebrated in the small towns. Quito is somewhat removed from these events, so it is easy to get caught up in one's interior life and miss what is happening in the countryside. To truly experience these fiestas, it is important to find a small town known for its particular event. We were lucky to visit Latacunga for Mama Negra, and El Quinche for the procession of the Virgin, as well as Ollantaytambo when we were in Peru.

Timelessness

2010-06-07T14:56:00.001-07:00

Spanish School

The luxury item in my life here is time, which is priceless. I have time to read books, to write, to sleep, to be with my daughter, to learn a language, to explore new places, to return to the places I want to see again, to watch movies, to get daily exercise, to read the paper cover to cover over a coffee, to have lunch with Eric in the Mariscal; in my life in Baltimore, there is no time to do more than run a big medical practice and take care of a huge home, in addition to attending to my husband and children and occasionally seeing my friends. I am not sure that it is possible to live my life in Baltimore more like the life I have in Quito.

Here, one never organizes too many activities in one day. There is no guarantee that you can get anywhere on time, so you minimize your agenda and give yourself alot of time to get from place to place and from activity to activity. And you stress less about getting anywhere on time. You are not expected to be early or even on time, and if you are hours late, you are probably arriving when everyone else is arriving anyway. Once you arrive, you stay a long time, no one is ever in a rush, and no one is in a hurry to get to bed.

I have definitely felt less stressed during my year here. Yes, we were robbed in those first few months and that was definitely stressful, but other than that first shock, our lives have been more relaxed and less intense and therefore easier. Due to budget limitations, our lives were restricted, but once we knew our limits, we had no choice but to stay within our limits, and somehow that was less stressful than I expected it to be. I was lucky that I did not have the responsibility of taking care of us financially (so Eric enjoyed being stressed), so as long as I stayed within the very clear boundaries that were set, I had little to worry about.

I will miss my life here in Quito. I will miss the time I have and the freedom to choose what to do with my time. It will be a challenge to adjust to the treadmill that will start the moment I set foot in my house and my practice.

Dance School

Soccer Fever

2010-06-06T19:19:00.000-07:00

Quito Versus Barcelona

I've watched soccer fans milling about in front of Atahualpa stadium, buying T-shirts on the streets, bringing in large water bottles full of beer, getting snacks from El Español, entering the stadium en masse. I have seen fireworks, phalanxes of riot police in position, and heard chants and cheers and screams and songs amplified in our living room. We finally had the opportunity to go to a soccer game tonight. It is the national championships and 'Deportivo Quito' was playing against 'Barcelona' (from Guayaquil). One of the Barcelona players is our neighbour and there are several other players who live in our building.

We bought $15 tickets and walked over to the stadium when the game started at 6. Fireworks were flying as we entered. We entered the 'Barcelona' section by mistake and were told that with Eric wearing a 'Quito' jersey, we had better move to the Quito section, which was far larger and in a better location in the stands. If we had paid $35 or more, we could have joined the more exclusive section of the stadium. As we left the Barcelona section, the ushers traded our torn tickets for someone else's complete ones and we walked over the crowded part of the stands, full of avid fans in dark black or blue jerseys. There was a drum section and lots of singing and chanting and beer and snack vendors walking around.

The game had begun, and it took a while to find space to sit in our section. The stadium was far from full, perhaps because it was a Sunday night, and early in the championship. Our section kept up a constant chant, and used the most foul language when their team did poorly or received a bad call. And fouls there were many and bad calls even more frequent. This is a dirty game, and the players try to get away with all sorts of unsanctioned behaviour, most of which they did get away with.

0:0

Deportivo Quito did well the first half, controlling the ball and encouraging the fans. Halftime came too soon, and nothing happened while we waited for the second half. An Energizer bunny hopped around the track circling the soccer field, while an huge blow-up bunny waited at one end of the field.

During the second half, Barcelona became more aggressive, although Quito made more shots on goal. There were more and more fouls called, angering the Quito fans, and bringing out more and more foul language. Both teams were tiring visibly, and in the latter part of the second half, Barcelona made a goal. There was a Barcelona fan in our section who cheered for the goal, and those close by began to throw beer at him and go after him. Riot police were immediately involved trying to defuse the situation. When I looked back on the field, there were riot police amongst the players, and the goalie was getting a red card and thrown out of the game. The Quito fans were even more furious. I had no idea what happened, and there is no video replay in the stadium (no stopwatch or halftime show or electronic gadgetry of any kind, just the basic, grass, goal posts and balls). The rest of the game was messy, with exhausted players, and repeated fouls and at one point my favourite player received a red card too. I have no idea what his name is, but I liked his style of playing. I could not see what he did to deserve a red card. The playing fell apart after that, and when the game ended the riot police surrounded the referee and line umpires to escort them from the field.

The Quito fans were listless and disappointed, but filed out of the stadium peacefully; of course with riot police everywhere wearing full battle gear, shields and batons, no one was in any mood to cause trouble. I really did not feel too upset. I was not sure which team to root for anyway. I do not feel as negatively about Guayaquil as many Quiteños. The fans near us were using horrible words to describe their rivals. I would have been equally comfortable sitting in the Barcelona section, and cheering my next door neighbour.

We all enjoyed ourselves; the fans were entertaining, the game kept our attention, and with the antics of the players and the referees and those near us on the benches there was never a dull moment. Why had we not become soccer fans months ago?

Call in the Riot Police

Performing Children

2010-06-05T15:21:00.000-07:00

Ready to Dance

This year in Ecuador has often been focused on Maya's activities, which means nine or ten hours of ballet practice weekly and daily violin practice, including orchestra, lessons and concerts. The hours of work of the past year culminated in a nationwide dance competition today. Our wake up call came at 6, no different than a school day. Maya was nervous, so the screaming began when doing her hair and of course I could not do anything quite right. I am determined never to do her hair again, it will have to be her responsibility from this day forward. We arrived at the dance school by 7 (where Maya had her hair done yet again, and no better than it was before) for an hour of warm up. I sat with Patti, mother of Maria, who stressed about all manner of things, and I learned that both Maria and Paula (Maya's ballet buddies) were crying this morning, and unable to eat or hold themselves together. So nerves are frazzled for everyone. Paula's mother was frantically sewing her daughter's dress together; I was sure there was more for me to do, but I used the time to try to find the ballet shoes Maya had lost two days ago, and figure out the agenda for the day.

Maestra Nina showed up with Maya's two costumes. Melanie (another friend) arrived late, having slept in, but joined the warm up for the last few minutes. I had sent Eric to the Colegio 24 de Mayo, which is near the Olympic Estadio near our apartment to stand in line to get tickets. When he returned, we piled into the truck for the short ride to the theatre. They were not letting spectators in yet, so Eric stayed in the car and worked while I entered the chaos of the back of the theatre where the performers were getting dressed. I was not allowed in, but pushed my way in anyway. Maya was dressed in one of her outfits (she is in two categories/dances) and will perform with a group of younger girls in the 'Infantil Group'. I took the initiative to look at the roster and discovered that Maya would dance first in her solo, and the group dance would be two dances later, so she would have to change quickly to be ready for the second dance. We dressed her again, and her teacher put all sorts of jewels on her arms and her hair and her ears. Melanie's Mom had made Maya up in somewhat garish pink eyeshadow, but the other girls had fake eyelashes and even more outlandish colour combinations on their faces, so I held my tongue. Maya had lent her toe protectors to Maria and complained of sore toes, but it was too late to make a change. She practiced her dance with her teacher amongst the throngs of young girls running about. I found myself with less and less to do, so I joined Eric in the audience.

Gluing on Earrings

The event was to start at 8, but of course, we are in Ecuador, so it was closer to 10 when things got underway. There was of course the requisite talking and talking and talking at first. The judges were from Mexico, Argentina, Chile, Columbia as well as Ecuador, so the competition billed itself as truly 'international'. Eric was working on his grant while waiting and continued when the theatre was dark. I am not sure what 'neoclassical dance' is; perhaps it is ballet but not as strict; the entire first ten or so dances were 'quasi' ballet. Maya was the 12th contestant, in the 'Ballet Solo Infantil' and appeared confident and comfortable. I am always in awe when I see her dancing onstage, amazed at what she can do with her body. She did a quick change and and was back on stage performing with her group of munchkins. Eric left immediately after that, so that he could work more effectively, and I stayed for more than forty more dances, both solo and groups, and ballet and contemporary. After a while, it went on far too long.

Princess

Finally, after some awkward perfomances at the end, the morning dances came to an close and the judges wrapped up their decisions and came to the front to board the stage. There was a long period of confusion, when the announcer realized that the winners were identified by numbers and the master list had to be found so that the names of the winners could be announced. The noise and the chaos mounted, and finally, the commentator went through the list of bronze, silver and gold winners, but very quickly so that those handing out medals and trophies could not keep up. The confusion mounted. It was difficult to understand who had won, and I am not sure those that did received their medals. Maya was happy to win a silver for her category of 'Solo Infantil' and it appeared that her group of ' Group Infantil' had won a bronze as well, but the medal went to her Dance school and not to the individual children. I congratulated her on winning two medals, but she did not understand that she had won the second category despite not having the medal around her neck. All of her friends did well and won something in their categories, so the 'Fundacion Danza' was very pleased. There is another school in Quito called the Escuela Metropolitana de Danza, which was much larger than the Fundacion Danza and did even better.

Maya was exhausted, as was I, and I questioned why I commit to these sorts of things; why do parents do so much for their children? I can think of so many other activities I would rather be doing on a Saturday in Quito!!!! Yet, once home, both Maya and I took naps ( I am not quite right yet, am still recovering). There is one more ballet performance (C0ppelia on the 19th) and another concert and then we are done for the season. Whew!

Run Through

Mariscal Return

2010-06-04T13:17:00.000-07:00

Plaza Foch

I remember when we first moved to Ecuador and were trying to decide where to live and our Ecuadorian friends warned us against the Mariscal because it was reputed to be too dangerous. The apartment that we fell in love with and lost was a couple of blocks from the Mariscal and that made it dangerous too (of course Eric was robbed not too far from the apartment, so we had some confirmation of our fears).

In the end, we decided on Republica del Salvador, and I have not regretted our choice. I like our street and having Quicentro and Megamaxi and Cyrano's all in walking distance, and of course Carolina Park has been a blessing. I have felt safe here (although we had warnings about the park and our street as well-- in the end no place in Quito is considered 'safe', one has to take care at all times, which one does get accustomed to) and have enjoyed all the amenities at our fingertips.

But I never tire of returning to the Mariscal. It is easy to get there in a straight line on the Ecovia for 25 cents, during the daytime the streets are safe to walk and wander, and there is always activity and entertainment on the streets and in the dozens of establishments directed to tourists and locals alike. My Spanish classes are on Jose Calama just off Seis, and I can get juice at the fruit store at the corner after I get off the bus, a coffee at Nocion on Foch, and paper and pencils at the Papeleria on the way to class. Internet is available at the school, as are hours and hours of Spanish too (we watched a Spanish movie from Spain today, which was a challenge to understand without subtitles, even the Ecuadorians had difficulty understanding) and of course camaderie with the other students and teachers, and our salsa class is nearby on Reina Victoria, where I have a blast and Eric suffers. Jipsum has bought the place from Gladys, the original owner, and has made it into a bar/nightclub as well as dance school. Eric and I need desperately to get out at night and dance to the early hours (which is unlikely).

Still under Construction after a Year

We wander about after class, deciding where to eat. The Magic Ban was full, so we ended up the Coffee Tree on the square on Foch, where we can do some people watching. A policeman in his motorcycle keeps watch, shoe shiners try to shine our shoes for a quarter, and it is mostly young people who walk by.

Coffee Tree

Catolica University is just a couple of blocks up the hill, so this is a good place to meet. The Artisan Market is nearby, and soon, we must make our final purchases before we return home, but that will happen next week, after Eric's grant is due.

I walk down the familiar streets, past tourist agencies and dozens of bars/restaurants, as well as two Libri Mundis (my favourite bookstores). I wonder what our year would have been like if we had chosen to live in the Mariscal or nearby, perhaps in our dream apartment; what sorts of experiences we would have had and how different it would have been for us.

Police on the Square

Quichuismo

2010-06-03T20:46:00.000-07:00

My body is literally being emptied inside out, and after a difficult night, I was hardly feeling alive. I decided that staying in bed all day yesterday had not been fun or effective, so today I would try another approach, which is to fight this bug by living life again. I dragged myself out of bed, showered, dressed and lay down again. After a while I left the house, but I could not stomach fighting through the crowds on the Ecovia, so I took a taxi to Calama and Seis de Dicembre. I was not sure I could manage through four hours of Spanish, but Amparo was there with energy and enthusiasm and I held on, and tried to learn something. .

Perhaps because I looked so miserable today, Amparo was extra gentle with me. We talked about the advantages of learning Spanish in Quito where the language is more 'pure', except that I noticed that she used a Quichua word (runa). It is interesting to hear so many Quichua words amongst the Spanish here, almost as if unnoticed. Quichua was the language that the Incas brought to Ecuador, and established as the 'lingua franca'. Today, Quichua is spoken across all Andean countries, and more recently there has been a greater interest and pride and study of the language. The Spanish conquerers tried to impose their language on the indigenous inhabitants, and they have been successful in that most Ecuadorians speak Spanish, but many, particularly indigenous, still speak Quichua.

The Spanish spoken, however, is interspersed with all sorts of Quichua words, which have become part of the culture, and part of the Spanish they speak here. The radio channel I listened to yesterday used 'guagua' for 'baby. A little boys' t-shirt expressed pride in his 'taita', or 'father'. Maya and her friends say 'chuta!' instead of 'shoot!' 'Kushki' is 'money', ñaño is 'brother', 'huasi' is 'house', and 'cocha' is 'lake'. One hears 'achachai' for 'cold and 'ararai' for 'hot', the list goes on. The insertion of Quichua words into the Spanish is called 'Quichuismo', and appears to be here to stay.

Eric and I had a salsa lesson at 1:00 PM, but Jipsum looked at me for a minute or two and told me to go back to bed, which I did without much protest.

In Bed all Day

2010-06-02T11:55:00.001-07:00

I suppose I am very lucky that I have managed to take good care of my GI system during the year I have been in Ecuador. My luck ran out yesterday and I spent the night in the toilet suffering. Whew!

I am trying to figure out what 'got me', since Eric and Maya usually share my meals, but it may be one leaf of lettuce or a raspberry, so it is difficult to determine the source. What misery!

I stayed in bed all day. And suffered.

Spanish, Ice Cream, and Music

2010-06-01T20:11:00.001-07:00

My Spanish is rusty. I have not spoken enough these past months, and was determined to return to lessons before our departure. It was my first day yesterday, but Amparo and Maya and I were preoccupied with the hospital, so we never got to the grammar part I need help with. Today there were no distractions, so we focused on 'ser and estar' and I know now that it was right to attack Spanish again. I am confused and definitely need help. I am amazed at how quickly four hours pass, and talking to Amparo is easy and flowing and reassuring. I have not lost all my Spanish, it is there in the recesses of my mind, and is easily coaxed out. But 'ser y estar' remains a challenge. I had done my homework in the hospital last night, and found that when I tried to think too much I did far worse than when I just tried to feel my way through the questions. There is a part of me that feels the Spanish, that thinks and dreams it, that knows more than I can demonstrate.

I survived the morning, but found my way back to the apartment for the afternoon. I picked up a bug either in Peru or on the weekend or at home last night, and am very unwell. I noticed that as I walked to the bustop, took the Ecovia, and walked home, several people were eating ice cream. I am not sure what that meant. Ecuadorians love their ice cream and there are ice cream establishments at every corner and ice cream vendors in the streets everywhere you go. There is gelato and 'helado de paila' which is made in a big aluminum/steel bowl, there is ice cream made in Salcedo near Latacunga, which is sold in Quito, there is 'Pinguino', which is Maya's favourite (she likes 'Magnum' bars and 'cornettos') and Baskins and Robbins next to Megamaxi. Whether it is cold or hot or raining or windy, Ecuadorians want to have ice cream available to them whenever and wherever they are. I ran into several ice cream indulgers as I walked home, too ill to think of eating an ice cream, but noting that ice cream is an obsession for Quiteños. When I first arrived here I ate an ice cream with Maya daily, but it became evident that I am unable to indulge much, that perhaps I have lactose intolerance, and pay a price whenever I inhale too many ice creams.

I arrived home too ill to accomplish much and stayed close to the toilet. I have been so lucky during my time in Ecuador not to be ill with GI ailments, and wonder if it is my overindulging in Peru which finally got me. I have been sort of unwell since we arrived home, and not getting better!

I had to pull myself together for Maya's concert tonight. It was 'Dia del Niño' today, with a performance at the 'Iglesia de la Concepcion' near the airport. Eric drove Maya to arrive at the 6:30 meeting time, but found the church closed. The bus with the other performers arrived, but the church remained closed and the concierge would not allow anyone in. The children were fine, running around and making noise, and Felipe, the conductor, did not seem distressed. It feels typical of Ecuador that things may happen or not, on time or late or early and no one seems too distressed when plans go awry and alternative possibilities need to be pursued. In the end the church opened and allowed the children and the spectators in, and the 'Orchestra Infantil' played beautifully and passionately. It is wonderful to see Maya playing confidently as concertmaster, swaying with the music, clearly enjoying herself immensely.

Hospital Metropolitano

2010-05-31T19:08:00.000-07:00

Today was an entirely frustrating, but very Ecuadorian day. I kept Tara home from school so I could meet with a hand surgeon at the Military Hospital at 11:00 AM. I had also arranged to start Spanish classes with Amparo today. I am convinced that my Spanish has deteriorated since I stopped taking lessons (last November!) so I decided that one thing I want to do before I leave is brush up on my Spanish. Instead of practicing 'ser and estar', Amparo joined us at the hospital where I had been instructed by Hernan (my neurosurgeon friend) to have 'Dr. Paredes' paged. When we arrived,we asked about seeing Dr. Paredes and were given a ticket and told to wait for our turn. The expansive lobby was carpeted with waiting patients, so I called Hernan again and he referred me to 'Information'. There was confusion as to which Dr. Paredes this was, since there were several working at the hospital. I had already called Hernan while he was in surgery (three times) so I did not think it was appropriate to call again. The information assitants did in fact call him and decided that we were to see one of Hernan's neurosurgical colleagues. We were sent to the 'Consulta Externa' building next door, where we found a pediatric neurosurgeon (not appropriate) named Dr. Marco Paredes, who was clearly not the doctor we were looking for. I then remembered that perhaps we were to see a plastic surgeon who does hands, so we trotted back to the main hospital where we inquired about a plastic surgeon named Dr. Paredes. The information ladies paged Dr. Franklin Paredes, but he did not respond.

We decided to travel to the ninth floor to find Dr. Paredes on the Plastic Surgery floor, when the doctor did not respond to his page. A soldier in uniform informed us that children are not allowed on the wards (for their protection), but we insisted that we were looking for her doctor. When we arrived on the unit, we learned that there was no way we could see Dr. Frankin Paredes, because he was in surgery all day and would be available tomorrow and Thursday.

It was time to give up on our efforts. I was frustrated because Maya had missed another day of school (quite unnecessarily), but I also wanted to know if she was able to play violin at her orchestra practice today and her concert tomorrow. She was insistent that she was ready to play (and her conductor wants her to be ready for leading her orchestra tomorrow), so she took off her homemade splint and played furiously.

By this time, I had decided that most likely her finger was not broken, but I wanted to be sure not to miss anything, so after orchestra practice, we walked down 'Atahualpa' to 'Amazonas' and tried to get a taxi to Hospital Metropolitano, one of the most modern, often recommended hospitals in Quito, up on the hill on 'Mariana de Jesus'. It began to rain, which makes taxis far less available. No taxis stopped for us. We waited over 40 minutes, getting entirely soaked and frustrated again. We walked across Carolina Park and I insisted that Maya take a hot shower to warm up and fed her some pasta.

I had asked Eric to meet us at the hospital with the truck. Because he has no cellphone anymore (after he lost about his seventh cellphone, Porta refuses to replace it), I could not call to have him pick us up. He came home eventually, and we all decided to visit the hospital together.

It was efficient and easy and expensive (relatively). We were brought in, examined by the nurse, by the medical resident, XRayed, and diagnosed and treated and sent home all in less than forty minutes. Unbelievable. The finger is not broken, and Maya can play violin again. I paid the $90 with American Express.

The Ecuadorian part of the equation, is both the inefficiency and wasted time and effort of the morning, not getting a taxi in the rain, as well as the entirely effective experience at Metropolitana. Taking all day to attend to a relatively small problem is not unusual, and having both the best and worst experiences in the same day and with the same problem can be expected. I find myself unsettled and frustrated even though everything worked out quite well for Maya. I would hope that days like today would teach me patience.

Parque Metropolitano

2010-05-30T19:23:00.001-07:00

Looking off to the Valley of Cumbaya/Tumbaco

I am trying to get through my lists of 'things to do before I leave Quito', and the plan for today was to take the truck up to the top of Guagua Pichincha (15,670 ft) or hike up Rucu Pichincha (15,696 ft). The truck access was more acceptable to Eric and Maya, and we asked our friends Jeff and Helen, Lucia and Nick ( a family from the DC area, who are here for two years) to join us. They had driven to the summit before, and knew how to get there. My alarm went off at 6 and I got up to look at the mountain, which was invisible because it was shrouded in clouds, which came all the way down to the base of the mountain. In fact, the valley was bathed in mist as well. Mornings are best to ascend the mountain, when visibility was usually much better, but unfortunately this morning was not a good one for our adventure. I am not sure I will get to the top of these peaks, which welcome me each morning and evening. I chose the apartment because of the view of the mountains, and the first thing I do each morning is look to the west for their reassuring presence. I have wanted to summit them since the first day I arrived in Quito. I have taken the teleferico up Rucu, and there is a path from the teleferico to the top, but I have only wandered upward a short way.

I climbed right back into bed, realizing that our plans were not to be today, and slept for another few hours. When I woke up the second time, the clouds were just as plentiful and there was rain on the ground. We met our friends anyway, and went for a hike at the Parque Metropolitano, a vast green space straddling a mountain between the Quito valley and that of Cumbaya/Tumbaco. I have never visited the park, and have been eager to do so. It is a few minutes from the house, and easily accessible by car. We hiked along a path which had several playgrounds for the children. There were families having picnics and parties under covered shelters. We walked in the drizzle and the fog, which never abated during the hours we were walking. It was a comfortable walk despite the rain, which was mostly a drizzle. There were dozens of paths, and public art pieces along the path we chose. There were many people in the park, but, because it is so large, with tall imposing trees we were alone for stretches of the walk.

Through the Woods

The children played games and ran in circles and disappeared several times, and then came back to join the adults, who talked about their experiences in Quito, and Eric and I expressed our feelings about not being ready to leave. I have a harder time understanding why Maya wants to stay, but perhaps she is just agreeing with her parents.

Up Hills

After our walk, we stopped at a restaurant establishment on the way down the hill from the part, serving 'chuchucara', an Ecuadorian specialty with mote (corn/hominy) and fried pork, which tastes delicious and very unhealthy. Everyone ate with gusto, all of us hungry after our walk.

Along with trying to see everything I have not seen before, we are also making an effort to spend time with the people we have met here who we have been close with. Yesterday, I was invited to the Canadian Ambassador's home for an evening with a group of dynamic and interesting women. We ate fondue and cheesecake and shared our experiences in Quito. Tonight Eric and I invited Santiago and Alejandra and Santiagos' son Jose David for dinner. We had been to their wedding when we first arrived, and Eric works with Santiago at the university. It was a goodbye evening, and they were great company, but I am feeling mostly sad about leaving.

Cayambe in the Distance

Teatro Mexico

2010-05-29T21:47:00.000-07:00

On several occasions, I have wanted to go to the Teatro Mexico, which is in the southern part of the city past the Centro Historico, but I have been too worried to travel there in the evening, so have missed all sorts of events. Today, Maya had a performance at the Teatro Mexico, so we took the truck there, and took almost an hour to find it, winding through the narrow streets of the centre, getting lost over and over, asking directions, finally arriving. Maya was anxious about showing up past the designated time, but by now, being in Ecuador, we have learned that time is fluid and being late is rarely an issue.

I noticed that we were above the street (Maldonado) where the Trole runs, and the Trole stop is 'Chimbacalle' (I passed this way many times when I traveled to Tierra Nueva Hospital), but I was not sure which street had access to the theatre, which is far above the road with a wall and train tracks between road and theatre. I doubt I would feel comfortable taking the Trole in the evening anyway. I think today was the only visit I will make to the Teatro Mexico, and we had difficulty finding it both early and later in the day.

It is a lovely old theatre, beautifully renovated, and did not fit in at all in the neighbourhood. We were not allowed in with Maya. The guard let her through the doors, and pushed us out. Some parents planned to wait until the show at 3 and 5. Eric and I drove back through the city, but avoided the centre and arrived home quickly, but did not have much time until we headed back to the centro for the show. I had suggested that we visit the San Diego church and convent. I have tried to see it several times, but was always presented with one obstacle or another, so I thought that with the car, we could find it easily and visit for a short time. Armed with a map from the internet, we made no progress in our efforts to find the church, and instead found ourselves in a tunnel going back north. We found our way back to the theatre by all sorts of circuitous routes and arrived a few minutes before start time, but of course the presentation began late after a series of speeches. Ecuadorians do like to make speeches.

It is always a delight to see Maya on her pointe shoes. Ballet has been a central focus of her year here, and she has several performances over the next few weeks at different venues, none more impressive than the Teatro Mexico.

Preparing to Leave Ecuador

2010-05-28T20:38:00.000-07:00

Eric leaves Ecuador in three weeks and Maya and I stay a little longer. I had planned our return to be a few days after school ends, but I was confused about dates, and the last day of school is earlier than I had thought. I have committed to starting back at my office August 2.

Which means we must start organizing our departure from Ecuador, which is difficult because none of us want to leave. Going to Machu Picchu was our last 'blast' and now we are all walking around with long faces and dread, and avoiding the inevitable. In addition, I have been recovering from both a cold and some sort of GI event, so I have been under the weather since we flew back from Peru on Tuesday. I have had little desire to do anything, and cannot get excited about packing up the house to leave.

I have been burying myself in books, reading furiously, which is what I usually do when I am ill, as if being sick allows me to indulge myself and let reading be my first priority. I am addicted to my kindle, and spent the last three days reading the third of the series of the 'Girl with the Dragon Tattoo'. I have decided that I will finally get back on track when I have finished the book, which will be today.

Meanwhile, Eric and I had a salsa class today, or at least I had canceled our Wednesday class and rescheduled for today when I was too feverish to make it earlier in the week. When Jypsum did not show up, or perhaps had not received the message (he likes to go to Santo Domingo for the weekend), we rescheduled again for next week, and wandered around in the Mariscal. We stopped for coffee at 'Cafe Cultura', after it turned out that 'Cafe Libre' was not yet open, and began compiling a list of 'things to do'. This was terrifying, because in truth we have far too little time to do all that must be done, or at least Eric is plagued with many impossible and time consuming tasks. I wrote the list on paper, Eric transcribed it on his computer, and we sorted out the daily schedule of events until he leaves.

And we are both sad and resistant to leaving. It makes sense that Maya does not want to move; change is difficult for children, and now that she is accustomed to her life here, Baltimore feels new and strange and scary. My taxi driver asked me if I liked it here and when I said that I was very happy in Quito, he asked me why I wanted to stay. I had to think a while before I answered, because in truth, I did like my life in Baltimore and did not want to leave either, as I did not want to leave Salt Lake City ten years ago, or Newport Beach before that. Perhaps change is equally difficult for adults. I feel at home here and Baltimore is an unknown again.

I could not come up with a coherent answer for the taxi driver. I like my life here because it is quieter, calmer, more relaxing than my very intense life in Baltimore, where I work long hours, ferry Maya around everywhere, and take care of my house and family. I like traveling and exploring new places and cultures and learning a new language, and having new adventures daily. But of course when in Baltimore, I travel and explore and have many adventures too.

I like the simplicity of my life here. I am not burdened by belongings or responsibility, except of course to Eric and Maya, but taking care of them happens in either place. It is interesting that living with so little can be so satisfying. Returning to Baltimore means living larger, living with more, having more responsibility, getting back on the treadmill of life, doing too much, thinking to much, stressing too much, being overwhelmed, feeling paralyzed and seeing no way out. This year in Ecuador has been an escape from all that, no doubt presenting its own challenges, but a momentary break from the usual and customary.

Eugenio Espejo

2010-05-27T22:38:00.001-07:00

Eugenio Espejo Welcomes Us

Our project today was to return to the Convention Centre at Eugenio Espejo and take photos and videos of the space in preparation for the 2014 'Neuroethology' meeting proposal. Eric has looked at the Hilton Hotel, the Casa de la Culture, the St. Augustin Monastery and Universidad Catolica as other possible venues, but the renovated hospital is the best option. It is big enough to handle the whole meeting, so that participants do not have to move from venue to venue throughout the five days of the meeting. It is self contained and has every modern convenience, at least all that are relevant to an international meeting, such as Wifi, huge screens and video technology, and is a beautiful colonial structure that is pleasing to the eye, and has wonderful views of the city from its walkways and balconies. I sound as if I am trying to sell this event. Eric will be making a proposal at the Neuroethology meeting in Salamanca, Spain, the first week of August.

Next Door Hospital

We took the Ecovia to the Casa de la Cultura, which is across the street from the Hilton, and timed our walk to the Convention Centre, which was less than ten minutes, but we were walking briskly. We met Felipe, who will be organizing all sorts of pre and post meeting trips to the Galapagos and the Jungle.

Of all the places we have considered for the meeting, my choice has always been Eugenio Espejo. It is grand and new (the renovation is two years old), it has wonderful spaces, and is self contained, well preserved, and functional. The only downside is that the buildings around it are rundown and unattractive, but that is not different from many parts of Quito. I just try to ignore the eyesores and focus on what is beautiful, and if there is nothing immediately visible that pleases the eye, I simply look upward toward the mountains, which are always a treat to see.

Meeting Room

Hospital Hallways Lovely Floors

Walkway

We wandered through large and small rooms, taking photos and movies, asking questions of our guide Pablo, who reassured us. The convention centre was in use today, at least a couple of rooms, by the convention bureau of the city, but this was the first time I actually saw it being utilized. There were students studying on the grassy spaces. I learned that the Universidad Central Medical School is just next door, and that the students use the grounds to rest or read or study. It made sense, since the new Eugenio Espejo Hospital is right next door to the old one.

Even a Chapel

Inside the Chapel
Glass and Mirrors

Graffitti Too

It is difficult to imagine this gorgeous building as a hospital. Our guide explained that the renovation used the original designs of the rooms and did not move walls or change the layout of the old medical structure, but that was hard to imagine, until he explained that the large rooms were divided by curtains. We visited the old kitchen downstairs in the basement, which once fed all the patients and staff. Pablo was very proud of the wheelchair accessibility. It is rare in Ecuador and in Quito for any spaces to be wheelchair accessible. I imagine that to be acceptable to European and American standards, and to be sufficiently modern, being 100% wheelchair freindly is necessary.

National Assembly Nearby

I did not need convincing to be reassured that Eugenio Espejo would be the best location for the meeting. I took dozens of photos, but the skies were grey today and I prefer to return when the sun is shining. Eric will have to put his proposal together for the August meeting, but is more concerned about writing his grant, and all of us are sad about leaving Ecuador far too soon!

The Basilica Nacional in the Distance

Computer Challenges

2010-05-26T20:56:00.000-07:00

Living without a computer has left me unsettled and disjointed. My computer has become my constant companion this year. I open it first thing in the morning, check it several times during the day, skype my parents each evening, make telephone calls, answer emails, download photos, write regularly; it has become an essential tool, especially during this year far from all that is familiar.

I am not sure what happened a few days ago. I had brought my laptop with me to Peru (as did Eric, and both my inlaws had their iphones which served as internet access for them almost everywhere ). I had imagined that I would find internet in most places and thus I could keep current on my email and writing. However, when everyone else was able to get online, I was having recurrent difficulties and finally simply gave up on my errant machine and decided to take a short break from constant contact with the rest of the world. Of course, if necessary, I could check Eric's machine, or even those of Sherry and Jeff. I was still able to write, but I could not connect to the rest of the world.

I expected that once home, I would get back on track, but my machine continued to be uncooperative. I could not get online. Eric is very knowledgeable about computers, but on examination, he could only tell me there was something seriously wrong, that perhaps I had been hacked and my identity and passwords and banking may be compromised. I wondered if I needed to make a dozen phonecalls and cancel all accounts. Whenever I tried to get online, the computer would become a different computer and follow its own agenda. Had it been infiltrated? What could I possibly do?

Eric decided to back up my computer and then try to install a new operating system, which would negate the supposed virus or hack. But the back up procedure was unsuccessful several times. We walked to Quicentro for coffee and a visit to 'Super Paco' ('everything for computers-co and paper-pa') and bought a 1.5 terrabite (big) device and tried to back up my computer again. It failed several times until much later in the day. It appeared not to be possible to install the 'SnowLeopard' operating system.

I was desperate. I could check my email on Maya's little computer, but typing on it was awkward and I could not add photos. Eric was on his computer all day and had his other computer in his office and unavailable. I accomplished very little. Eric accused me of opening a virus, but I could not remember doing anything like that over the past few days.

The treat of the day is that I directed my energies to simply reading. I finished half read books, I started a new book, and it was entirely satisfying.

Finally, we remembered that several days ago when we could not get online at 'Sol y Luna', a young IT fellow adjusted both our computers. Eric decided that he may have reconfigured mine, so he retraced the steps necessary to reverse the adjustments, and the computer finally worked normally. I am sure I could have never figured the problem out on my own, so I am very lucky to have a knowledgeable computer expert at my fingertips. I felt guilty that he has so much work to do, but has devoted so much time and energy to fix my problem.

I am feeling awkward that I am entirely dependent on this little device, that any time away from it brings on withdrawal pains, and that I am unable to function without my computer.

Today was a day to stay close to home and rest and recover from the intense activity of the Peru trip. I tried to nurse my cold and feel better, so I stayed close to home and ventured out only to pick Maya up from her first day back at school, ferry her to her orchestra practice and violin class and back home.

I packed two huge bags full of belongings to give to my inlaws, who left for St. Petersburg this morning. After bringing two full duffel bags to Baltimore when I visited for my medical appointment and leaving them with Emily, giving one to Emily when she left and the two to Sherry and Jeff, I expected my apartment to be empty, but my impression is that I will have to pack many more bags or leave several of our belongings behind. The packing brings our departure ever nearer and I am feeling sad and not at all ready to leave Ecuador. Eric found it painful to go to Megamaxi and buy food, and Maya assured me that she would rather stay and continue the life we have here, than return to Baltimore. It took so much effort to adjust to this place, and now our looming departure date has arrived before we are ready to go. I tried to take advantage of this slow and uneventful day to start organizing our belongings, but it wasn't any fun, so I left several piles lined up on one side of the bedroom. I do not feel ready to go!

Sun Shining in Quito

2010-05-25T13:01:00.001-07:00

View From Our Window

Driving through Lima early in the morning is almost pleasant. The traffic was tolerable, the sky was dark rather than grey, and we drove along the Pacific ocean for a part of the way. The sounds of the waves crashing was reassuring. Lima airport was easy to get through and we had a long time to wait for our flight so we went shopping. Maya and I tried every type of chocolate covered candy at 'Britt Peru'. Exotic fruits enveloped with chocolate necessitated trying every one to figure out which we had to purchase. I bought a fruit found only in Peru, which I cannot remember the name of anymore ( I finished the packet by the end of the day).

Quito was sunny and warm, in contrast to the grey, wet humid air of Lima. We were exhausted when we got home and had little energy to do much. We all took naps ( a rare event for me) until Maya's three hour ballet class.

It was good to be home. It will take some time to absorb all that we saw during our whirlwind visit to Peru. I still feel stunned, astounded, in awe, eager to learn more about the country, and to visit again. It makes sense to compare the two countries. Peru is bigger and has double the population of Ecuador. Lima is far more cosmopolitan, energetic, and vibrant than Quito, but being in the sierra of Peru reminded me more of the sierra of Ecuador. The tourist industry is far more developed in Peru. Guides speak English well, and every other language as well. In our experience there was more organization and everything functioned well in Peru. The food was excellent, in fact there is a true Peruvian 'cuisine'. I imagine there are all sorts of archeological sites in Ecuador, but they have not been developed, so it feels as if there is so much more to see in Peru.

Ecuador and Peru are Latin countries which share the Andean range and some parts of their history, but they feel very different. I want to explore so much more of Peru, but it also feels good to be back in predictably unpredictable Ecuador. Seeing our guards and our neighbours and saying 'Buena Tardes' to everyone, running into well built soccer players and their fancy cars at our building, visiting with the mothers from ballet class and catching up on the activities of the past week, visiting with my friends from the gym, catching up on email (my computer has not worked for the week), eating papaya and yoghurt for a snack and a coffee from Boncaffe next door; all that is familiar feels good, and it is good to be home.

On the other hand, coming home forces us to confront the reality of our departure in a few weeks, which brings sadness and regret back into our psyches.

Pichincha Sky

Cusco to Lima

2010-05-24T20:10:00.001-07:00

Flying To Lima

Milagros met us early to bring us to the airport and our flight to Lima. I sat on the other side of the plane this time and had great views of the Andes as we cruised to the big city. Lima was cloudy and drab and grey, such a great contrast to the unrelenting sun in Cusco.

We returned to the same hotel, but this time had huge beds and the biggest jacuzzi bath I have ever seen in my life! Maya was determined to take a bath sometime during our stay. I was eager to get out and explore Lima. We had lunch looking out over the grey ocean and watched the surfers missing waves. Visibility was limited and the greyness uninviting. The Gold Museum was exhibiting at another level of Larcomar ( the large shopping/eating/entertainment complex by the sea), so we elected to visit. This is an extension of the larger gold museum in another part of LIma, which I have wanted to visit for some time. We learned about the methods used in antiquity to create beautiful gold and silver objects, and the collection of artifacts was impressive. The last room with the most beautiful gold was dark and a little spooky. I wonder why curators like to do that; it is the same in the Banco Central in Quito; I imagine it is supposed to make everything look a little other worldly, but it felt equally ominous.

Walking in Lima

When I emerged from the darkness, Eric was waiting for me; Maya, Sherry and Jeff had walked back to the hotel. We joined them for a short time, but I wanted to explore some more (of course!) so Eric and I took a taxi to the centre of town. I wondered why there was so much traffic on a Sunday, and asked the driver, who informed me that it was Monday and peak traffic time. I asked if anything like 'Pico y Placa' had been proposed (in Quito, on certain days specific license plate numbers are not allowed out at peak times), but it was evident that Limeños had no intention of altering the traffic pattern. I did see a public transport line appearing to run along the middle of the narrow city, but the other buses were smaller and less numerous than those in Quito. Fewer people appeared to be taking buses. It took far too long to get to the centre, and the sun was disappearing as we walked around the Plaza de Armas, looked at the Cathedral, wandered to Plaza San Francisco along a street where every store was making and/or selling shoes. Last time Eric and I were here, he had a pair of motorcycle boots made, which were beautiful and perhaps too fine for the type of motorcycling he does, so they fell apart quickly. We decided to look at shoes again, but he has size 13 feet, and it is difficult to find shoes for him. I found beautifully made Peruvian boots for me, but Eric settled for a pair of moccasin type non leather shoes made in China.

Plaza de Armas

San Fransisco Church

Security at San Fransisco Square

We walked along the main pedestrian-only street, watching people, looking at shops, at the art nouveau buildings. The streets were packed. It was dark when we arrived back at the hotel. We walked half a block and found an empty restaurant, which did not seem promising. The house wine was undrinkable. The food however was far better than expected, which was a relief. Maya fell asleep during dinner, but I woke her up when we got the jacuzzi filled, so that she could join us in the bubbles for a midnight swim. At first she was annoyed to be woken up, but she would have been devastated if she had missed the experience. Our wake up call was to be around 5, so none of us planned to sleep very long.

Happy Jacuzzi Time

Paza de Armas Fountain

Ollantaytambo

2010-05-23T18:24:00.000-07:00

Marching Band

Colourful Dancers

Fiesta Day

Humourous Dance

Watching the Show

My alarm beeped at 5AM, I could not open my eyes, but I dragged myself out of bed. I rousted Eric, and sent him to the ATM and the ticket office, and began to ready myself for our morning visit. The only ATM in town was still not working and there was no way to get 'soles' for our tickets and no other way to get up to Machu Picchu. I was desolate. I had arranged for our trainride back to happen later in the morning so we could see the sunrise over the ruins, which I had read about, planned for, hoped for.

Urubamba River

Eric had no trouble falling back asleep, I had not woken Maya, and I just stewed. How could I be here and not see the morning light over Machu Picchu? How could I have not arranged this better? Why did I not get the tickets in Cusco, or insisted that we get the cash in our pockets in Lima or Cusco? I had told our tour operators that I wanted to see the ruins in the morning, why did I not insist they buy us our tickets? I wound myself into a frenzy and discovered that I had a fever and a cold and was absolutely miserable.

Shopping in Aguas Calientes

Maya Shopping

We wandered around Aguas Calientes, which reminds me of a mining town, with a railroad in the centre of the main street, and wooden buildings that appear slapped together. I expected to see cowboys around a corner. Near the train station, the kisoks were setting out their wares, encouraging us to buy their textiles and leather goods and jewellery and knick knacks. When we arrived at the train for our ride back to Pisacucho, we discovered that we did not have a seat on the carriage, that because I had changed our train time so we could visit the ruins in the morning, we had been rebooked on seats that did not exist. In the end, seats were found for us, and the train left the station slowly, stopping frequently, pausing in the bright sunshine, so that we could peruse the terraces, Inca trails, Inca buildings, the Urubamba river rapids rushing past us. Next time I visit, I would like to walk the Inca trail and stop at every ruin.

No Seats for Us

Ruins All Along the Train Tracks

Terraces Everywhere

Craggy Mountains

Snow Capped Peaks

Cesar was not waiting for us at Pisacucho as was expected. We milled about for a while, and then found another driver waiting for us; Cesar was unable to drive to the train station, but I was not sure why. We encountered him further on. He told us that today was fiesta day in Urubamba and Ollantaytambo, and that it had been impossible to get through Urubamba in the morning, which is perhaps why he was unable to meet us. He asked us where we wanted to stop for lunch, and we were lucky to choose Ollantaytambo, where we stopped in the main square and were entertained by the local dance groups, in their colourful costumes and ancient traditions. It turned out that this was the biggest fiesta of the year, and would last all week, today being the first day. Music, dancing and bullfights were on the agenda.

Bulls Ready for the Fight

Bullring

Spectators

Dancers

Great Masks

The dancers choose traditional costumes and stories to move through. Many of the dances make fun of the Spanish and the conquistadors. I wish I knew the meaning of the dances, instead I enjoyed the movement and the simple music and the wild styles. Children joined parents and the crowd was very appreciative and ever growing.

Sherry and Jeff found a restaurant with a balcony and a view of the show, so we ate pizza and lemonade and learned details about the dances from the wife of the owner of the restaurant who happened to be Canadian, and her children. Watching the dancing and the antics of the crowd helped me forget what a horrendous cold I suddenly had.

Driving Back to Cusco

We drove back to Cusco on an alternate route. We climbed to a high plain, with snow capped peaks in each direction. The land was brown a little dry, and mostly agricultural, and the towns used adobe bricks for construction, so the houses were brown too. Many had a figure of two bulls on the top of the roof, along with a cross or rosary. We wondered where we could purchase one. They were supposed to bring good luck to the house and the family who lived in it.

High Plains

Craggy Peaks

Good Luck Bulls on top of House

I learned from Cesar that the women who wore felt hats were Mestizo and those who wore a particular headress were indigenous, the latter wore more colourful and patterned skirts. We passed town after small town, until we descended into Cusco and back into our hotel. Shopping was next on the agenda, and Maya and I found the hats we wanted to buy. Dinner was at the Inca Grill (where we ate our first day), but I chose to wander through town and visit the local dance theatre for more dancing.

Local Dance Troupe

I buried myself in bed early, with lots of Ibuprofen and warm blankets, hoping that a little extra sleep would fight a horrible cold I had developed. We were heading back to Lima early in the morning, but would have preferred to explore this lovely town instead.

Native Dress

Native Mother and Child